Photos: Umnak Island trek through rugged land of cows

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About 7500 cows live on Umnak Island, which also hosts four active volcanoes.

NIKOLSKI — Waves of wind rippled silver-green as we strolled away from a scant cluster of buildings here, setting cottongrass tufts head-banging to its rhythm. A small lake blew sideways across our path. A small bird blew sideways between my son's legs. Sand stung our eyelids.

But this was a warmish summer day. The wind was nothing any resident would notice. It was as mild an introduction as you get in the Aleutians. So I told my daughter she shouldn't walk in the lake if she wanted warm feet. And I told my son to turn his face from the blowing sand. And I told myself this was only day one of 49 — surely we'd soon be transformed into a well-oiled expedition machine.

Read more: Welcome to Umnak, a land of cows that assaults the senses