Dear Alli,
My boyfriend and I want to become more adventurous outdoorspeople, and he has proposed attempting winter camping next month (snow or not!). Problem is, I have no idea where to start. I have minimal experience and he has minimal gear.
Do you have any suggestions for "winter camping lite"? I think we can borrow the basics of winter sleeping bags, cookstove, etc, but where should we go? I'm hoping for a place with a cabin or yurt at the end, but with enough of a hike in that we feel like we've worked off our hot toddies at the end of the night (i.e., more of a trek than Manitoba).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
- Gimme Shelter
Dear G.S.,
If I had been you and couldn't find a YouTube video addressing my Google query of "easy Anchorage area novice winter camping boyfriend hot toddy," I would have already given up. I admire your goal-oriented approach.
So, I'm going to outline a couple of great winter camping experiences and explain why the heck someone would want to camp in winter.
I have to be honest here. For me, winter camping has the drawbacks that regular camping does for most people. I don't get the allure of being outside in the freezing cold when I have a perfectly good cozy bed in a room with windows I can open or, for the most part, keep closed.
It might also have something to do with the fact that I am scared of the cold. I've become so cold while out for a ski that I had to fumble for minutes before securing my key in the front door.
I've had several winter camping experiences, both front and back country, but none that has been especially pleasant. So, I think it's a great call on your part to have your first experience somewhere a little more accommodating than a tent, so you can see how you feel. That said, I know that there is something incredible and challenging about winter camping, something I am also drawn to. I see your letter as a personal challenge to try again. Alaska is at its most beautiful and intense in the winter, and few of us see it at night. I could camp on the edge of thousands of miles of the quiet, snowy unknown, but often it's easier to browse Amazon Prime for a movie. I would prefer the experience waiting for me outside, one that I will remember much more vividly than whatever happens on a screen.
To answer your question (and convince myself why winter camping deserves another shot), I reached out to my casually badass outdoorswoman friend, Aimee Chauvot.
"I like winter camping because I just love being outside," Chauvot said. "And I like to challenge myself a little bit, within reason."
Her advice to a new winter camper: "Try it in a safe, familiar area where you can bail if it's not your cup of tea. Don't think it's going to be like camping in the summer. But give it a fair shot."
Chauvot described what she looks for when designing a winter camping itinerary. First and foremost, avalanche danger is a factor. Then she takes a hard look at her ability in sometimes unpredictable conditions. In a worst-case scenario, would she be able to make it out safely?
Chauvot looks at how long it will take to reach your destination, and how difficult the trip will be. Be honest about your own ability, especially considering that it may be cold and snowy out.
Some tips that I found especially helpful:
• "There's no cap to your comfort except how much you can physically carry." Chauvot rattled off a list of clothing she took on a recent trip, including multiple base layers, fleece pants, down pants, down booties, and a down coat rated to minus-30. She described this style as "layers nonstop," and quickly added that winter layers are nice because most of them are pretty compactible.
• When melting snow, leave an inch or two of water in the bottom of your pan because it melts faster.
• "Don't use the CamelBak in the winter. It will freeze on you." She recommended an insulated sleeve for water bottles to prevent them from freezing. Keeping fuel warm is important too (in fact, having a backup stove isn't a bad idea).
• There is no substitute for a hot meal. It takes a little longer to boil water, but there is a world of difference between having a granola bar for breakfast and oatmeal.
But back to your question, G.S. You asked about a good starter itinerary for a would-be winter camper. Chauvot's top two recommendations:
• Eagle River Nature Center yurt(s) or cabin. This is a popular option, accessed by a walk or ski of less than 2 miles (if conditions ever allow; picture me shaking a fist at December here). The stakes are low here. You're close enough to Eagle River, yet far enough from your cozy warm bed, to make it a fairly safe bet you'll have a positive first experience. Unfortunately, due to its popularity, this will be a work-week-only adventure in the foreseeable future; weekends are booked. There are usually lots of people out and about on these trails, so you aren't completely alone. www.ernc.org/river-yurt.html
• Byers Lake Cabins. These three Denali State Park cabins are a day trip from Anchorage plus a half-mile trek in. They have a remote and cozy feeling, offering spectacular views of Denali on a clear day. All the cabins, which rent for $70 a night, have woodstoves, which is a plus since temps in this area can drop to minus-40 F this time of year. An interesting note: the cabins' capacity is 6 people, which aside from indicating how much they can fit, could also be read as a recommendation. After all, in the winter more people equals more body heat. www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks/cabins/matsu.htm
Either way, G.S., bring warm sleeping bags, and let me know how you fare. I knew you were on the right track when you mentioned hot toddies.
Alli Harvey lives, works and plays in Anchorage.