The South Fork Eagle River hike is a "Choose Your Own Adventure" book in trail form. But unlike the popular children's series, there aren't any wrong turns on the surprising and scenic trek, only decisions about which epic odyssey to undertake.
Hikers can follow two main trails from the parking lot near the end of Hiland Road. One takes travelers to Eagle and Symphony Lakes, the other heads up Hanging Valley. Either destination is well worth the moderate exertion needed to traverse the roughly 5 miles of gently rising trail.
Here's a rundown on the two hikes, both of which use the same route for their first two miles:
Symphony of sights
From Anchorage, drive north toward Eagle River to the Hiland Road exit. Take a right at the stop sign and another right at the first stoplight onto Hiland Road. From there, travel 7.2 miles to South Creek Road and take a right. Go half a mile and take a right onto West Creek Road, where there's a gravel parking lot, outhouse and information board. There's no fee for parking, but the lot can get extremely crowded on weekends. Since the trail head is in a residential neighborhood, make sure not to park in someone's driveway or on private property.
The first couple miles of trail were significantly widened during a trail-realignment project by Alaska State Parks in 2011. What had been a narrow singletrack became a wide dirt path resembling a four-wheeler trail. However, bicycles and motorized vehicles are not allowed.
The path climbs gradually along one side of the broad South Fork Eagle River Valley. After about a third of a mile, a trail marker directs hikers to Hunter Pass, a side trip that leads toward Arctic Valley. In the fall, this trail is popular with berry pickers, who can be seen canvassing the valley wall for blueberries in droves.
The main trail continues up the valley past a small private lake and the last houses. From there, it's pure Chugach State Park wilderness as far as the eye can see.
After about 2.2 miles the trail slopes down to the valley floor and across South Fork Eagle River, a small, fast stream lined with green mossy banks. Keep an eye out for small trout swimming in the cool, clear waters.
After crossing a couple smaller streams, the trail follows a series of wooden steps as it climbs up the opposite side of the valley and turns right (south) for about two miles up the valley.
From there, the trail climbs slowly up the valley to a large glacial moraine covered in boulders. There's a large, sturdy bridge back across the rushing river, after which the final half mile is unmarked and challenging. However, there are a series of cairns (large piles of rock used to mark the trail) that provide a rough guide.
After crossing the boulder field, hikers will be rewarded with the spectacular view of Eagle and Symphony Lakes, separated by a large ridge caused by a rock slide. The twin lakes are strikingly different, with aqua-green Eagle on the left (looking up the valley) and clear-as-glass Symphony on the right.
Hikers Kayla Nowak, Amanda Dotten and Lauren Alwine spent the night camping near the lakes beneath Triangle Peak, which rises like a pyramid at the head of the valley.
"It's really pretty," said Nowak, who grew up in Eagle River. "The sunset from the end of Symphony where we were looking out in the valley, the sun just kept following the mountain ridge."
From this spot, hikers can access any of the nearby ridges or peaks, depending on time and fitness level. The three women climbed Triangle Peak, a steep but non-technical climb that Alwine -- visiting from Pennsylvania -- called a highlight.
"It was awesome. I was freaking out when we were climbing the Triangle, but it was worth it," she said.
The trip to the lakes is about 5 miles, and takes some two hours. Easy to follow, the trail is suitable for children, although the final stretch through boulders can be tough and tedious, especially for kids or those wearing unsuitable footwear. Sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes are a must while walking over the boulders, which have a tendency to shift without warning.
Beginning July 1, hikers can also bring fishing poles to catch grayling in Symphony Lake, which has a large population of the small but large-finned fish.
Between the lakes are remnants of a large, abandoned wooden structure left by an old homesteader. The ruins aren't much good for shelter, but offer an interesting focal point for one of the most unique photos in the Chugach.
Choose another adventure: Hanging Valley
Although far less traveled, the trail to Hanging Valley is an adventure well worth taking due to a surprisingly satisfying payoff.
Finding the trail initially can be tricky. After taking the main South Fork trail across the first bridge at about 2.2 miles, continue straight (east) instead of turning back up the valley. The trail is singletrack but easy to follow and heads straight up a small ridge that blocks the entrance to Hanging Valley. Once atop the ridge, the trail will appear clearly as it heads up the bottom of the valley through alpine tundra covering an old glacial moraine.
The valley doesn't appear to be anything special as the trail snakes its way gently upward, although the nearby mountain ridges do beckon. Most peaks in the area (Hurdygurdy and Harp among them) have trails to the top.
After about 2.5 miles, hikers will reach a small glacial lake, or tarn. The view back down the valley from the clear, shallow pond is beautiful, but only a taste of what's to come.
From there, the trail gets much steeper as it climbs what appears to be an unremarkable ridge. However, upon cresting the top, prepare to be amazed.
Hidden behind the ridge is a spectacular unnamed tarn that sits at the bottom of a large secluded amphitheater. With soaring mountains behind the crystal-clear water, the impression of solitude is overwhelming. It's an ideal place to set up camp for the night or simply snap a few photos.
From the tarn, hikers can continue up a longer single track scramble to an overlook with a view of both Hanging Valley and Eagle River Valley. Climbers can also use the spot as a starting point for peak-bagging, although hikers should not attempt anything without first consulting guide books; the terrain can get technical and tricky in a hurry.
Like the Symphony and Eagle Lakes route, the trail is about 5 miles long and can be done as a day hike or the beginning of a longer adventure. Aside from the final hike to the tarn (or the overlook hike) there isn't much climbing, and the route is suitable for children.
For more information on the hikes, including a trail map, visit the Alaska State Parks website dnr.alaska.gov.
Contact Matt Tunseth at mtunseth@alaskadispatch.com