Whether you want history or nature, Kodiak’s Fort Abercrombie is a 182-acre treasure

I am a World War II history junkie. I'm not sure why — perhaps it's a fascination with the sheer amount of U.S. real estate utilized between 1939 and 1946 for the sake of men, machinery and country.

Alaska held a special position during the war, thanks to a strategic location and a good deal of fear on the part of the nation. From blackouts to air raid drills, from tin-foil drives to USO dances, Americans did their part for the war effort, including thousands of young men temporarily stationed along distant shorelines they never knew existed.

The remnants of World War II have helped shape my family's impressions about destinations we visit in Alaska. Together, we've walked the rutted roadways and ducked into bunkers of discarded military sites from Sitka to Unalaska, trying to place our feet in the boots of soldiers, airmen and sailors who somehow managed to work in the cold, dark and often desolate conditions Alaska duty stations afforded.

The mission was critical — protect the entire expanse of  western America from invasion by air or sea via a calculated system of coastal defense installations. Kodiak Island was one such place.

Fort Abercrombie Historial State Park, located on the northern end of the island about five miles from downtown Kodiak, was constructed in the spring of 1941 under an executive order from President Roosevelt. Built to protect the new Kodiak Naval Air Station, the initial 780-acre parcel of land was slated as an Army post to bolster a military presence in Alaska that before 1939 numbered about 300 soldiers, most of them stationed at Fort Seward in far-away Haines.

When the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor on Dec. 7, 1941, the obvious importance of Fort Abercrombie's strategic location coupled with the risk of invasion from Japan meant the U.S. Army needed to make its presence known, immediately. A searchlight was installed at Fort Abercrombie, along with additional bunkers and towers to house electronics, munitions and communications. Quonset huts dotted the cleared forestland, and two 8-inch guns pointed their steely sights toward the water.

All of this fortification was for good reason, as the Japanese attacked Dutch Harbor, Attu and Kiska in June 1942. While those huge guns were never fired except for practice, Fort Abercrombie remained in a ready state until the U.S. Army stood down in December 1944. The site officially closed in 1945.

Today's Fort Abercrombie is a 182-acre treasure, the land having been set aside as part of the Alaska State Park system in 1969. Its uniqueness in both location and terrain appeals to a variety of people — from history buffs like me to trail runners and parents with kids looking for a place to get outdoors.

I've visited several times during different seasons, and each time I'm reminded of its diversity. Scraggly old-growth spruce tower above my head and create a canopy of seclusion reminiscent of a J.R.R. Tolkien novel. And the green; oh, the green! Mosses, lichens, tree branches, salmon berry and currant bushes create a riot of color that makes perfectly clear Kodiak 's nickname as the "other" Emerald Isle.

Visitors can walk the seven miles of gravel trail, take a self-guided walking tour of the discarded military artifacts and bunkers, or head toward the beach for tidepooling.

Ranger Ben Shryock, in his first year with Alaska State Parks after serving on Kodiak's police force, says the diversity of landscape is his favorite part about Fort Abercrombie.

"I love every opportunity to tell people about exploring the old-growth and accessible coastline," he said as we walked the trail with Alaska State Parks director Ethan Tyler. "There's so much habitat here, too, and we have a lot of local families who come here to show it off to their kids."

A summer naturalist program gives kids the chance to explore the vast network of tidepools along the rocky beach. As we stood at the tip of the park's Miller Point area, at least six whales blew misty sea water into the air as they hunted herring on the sunny October afternoon.

Lake Gertrude, an easy walk from the parking lot, is stocked with rainbow trout thanks to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game and is popular for ice fishing in the winter. As we walked through the filtered sunshine, eagles cackled, chatty chickadees flitted among the trees and District Ranger Preston Kroes told us about a family of red foxes making their home in one popular section of the park.

The Kodiak Military History Museum is housed in the ammunition storage bunker at Miller Point, in full view of the ocean beyond and within striking distance of the now-silent guns. Remodeled to emulate the lifestyle of the men stationed at Fort Abercrombie, the museum is a hands-on facility run completely by volunteers, most of them veterans. Open regular hours during the summer and by appointment the rest of the year, I always come away with an appreciation of the era and people within it.

Tyler, who was making his first visit to Fort Abercrombie since taking the reins six weeks ago, seemed as awed by the place as I was.

"There really is something for everyone," he said, looking through a telescope at the pounding surf, puffing whales and mossy trees. "This place is a gem."

If you go

— Fort Abercrombie parking fee is $5 for day-use. Campground fees vary; visit the park website for information (dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/kodiak/ftaber)

— Activities: Tidepooling, hiking, mountain biking in designated areas, fishing, self-guided walking tour, birding and camping (summer only). Kids will enjoy spotting whales March through October; sea otters (and the occasional river otter family) are often found near the shore.

Erin Kirkland is author of the Alaska On the Go guidebook series and publishes AKontheGO.com.