I've been stalking rhubarb plants all over my neighborhood in anticipation of the first hint of those jewel-toned shoots. Between the new crop and last year's wild Alaska blueberries piled up in my freezer, it's as good a time as any to practice making tarts, pies and other spring treats.
Of all the possibilities, I find myself returning to crostatas, an Italian baked tart or pie (the French version is known as galette). Mainly, I love these tarts because of their free-form, open-faced nature. In other words, they don't have to be perfectly shaped. No one has to know that the "rustic" look of your final presentation had less to do with intention than lack of technique.
Sugar doesn't always have to be the star of these crostatas. In fact, savory versions are just as stellar. Think sautéed mushrooms and chicken or salmon and spring greens. For a lovely savory dough recipe and fillings, check out Laurie Constantino's offerings at laurieconstantino.com/recipe-index/kale-galette-with-yogurt-crust.
This rhubarb crust recipe, adapted from chef and cookbook author Sara Foster, features an easy-to-work-with dough that bakes up tender and flaky. As for the filling, I usually pair the tartness of rhubarb with sweeter, riper fruits; pears and all sorts of berries seem to play well with rhubarb. If you have an unrelenting sweet tooth, up the sugar in the filling part of the recipe.
You can make the dough ahead of time and freeze or keep in the refrigerator for up to one week. Serve these crostatas warm out of the oven with vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of crème fraîche sweetened with a bit of honey or powdered sugar.
Rhubarb crostata
For the pastry crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into about 16 pieces
1 large egg yolk
3 to 4 tablespoons ice-cold milk (or water)
For the berry filling:
3 cups total fresh fruit, such as rhubarb, blueberries, salmonberries, pears, peaches, etc.
1/3 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
1 large egg
1 to 2 tablespoons milk
Make the pastry crust:
Combine flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor (or a large bowl if not using a processor). Add butter and pulse a few times until mixture resembles breadcrumbs (or mix with a pastry blender or two forks). Whisk together egg yolk and 3 tablespoons milk and pour into flour mixture; pulse (or mix by hand) just until dough starts to come together and form a ball; add a little more milk, if dough is still dry. Press together with lightly floured hands and form into a flat round; wrap in plastic wrap and chill at least 20 minutes and up to overnight (or 1 week). Note: Dough can be made ahead and frozen; thaw before using.
Make the rhubarb filling and crostatas:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper (or lightly grease them); set aside.
Combine fruit and next five ingredients in a large bowl. Toss gently to combine; set aside. Remove dough from refrigerator; divide evenly into 8 pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll out each piece on a lightly floured surface into about 6-inch rounds. Place rounds on baking sheets. Scoop about 1/4 cup fruit mixture into center of each round; top each with butter. Fold about 1 inch of dough over fruit all the way around to form a rim.
Whisk egg and milk together in a small bowl; brush outside crust of each crostata with egg mixture. Sprinkle tarts with a little bit of sugar. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes (rotating pans after 20 minutes) until golden brown. Let cool in pan 5 minutes. Remove to a wire rack to cool. Serve with vanilla ice cream or crème fraîche.
Kim Sunée ate and lived in Europe for 10 years before working as a food editor for Southern Living magazine and Cottage Living magazine. Her writing has appeared in Food & Wine, The Oxford American and Asian American Poetry and Writing. She is currently based in Anchorage. Her most recent cookbook is "A Mouthful of Stars." For more food and travel, visit kimsunee.com.