Fact: A Google search for "Pil's Deli" returns only 320 results.
Fact: Pil's Deli has been open on G Street since 1992.
I've walked past the little sandwich shop with a retro-ish sign many times over the years but have never popped in to eat.
Operating in close proximity to Glacier Brewhouse, Orso and Sacks Cafe, among many other options in a one-block radius, Pil's must be doing something right to be pushing the 20-year milestone.
Part of the appeal, I found out on my visits, is the friendly, consistent service. Pil's is a family-run operation and the pride shows through in the smiles that greet you.
Owner Kwi Kim, who manages the deli while his wife does the cooking, said they have had many downtown regulars over the years and that each summer more Alaskans and tourists discover the shop.
My first Pil's trip was on a bustling Friday downtown. The small indoor dining area, featuring a wide variety of pre-packaged drinks, snacks and baked goods, was half-filled with customers. My friend and I took in the large white board menu: Pil's offers a good number of soups, salads, subs, sandwiches and wraps. We both settled on combos. She opted for the half wrap and soup, while I went for the half sandwich and soup. The counter person must have misunderstood us because we were served whole sandwiches and soup cups. We decided we liked the size of our now-bigger meals, so we didn't complain.
We sat outside at a sidewalk table, which is a nice summertime touch.
My tuna salad sandwich (whole $6.85) came pre-packaged in stryofoam, a nice touch if I was on the run but less appealing when eating in. The sweet and tangy tuna salad, with bits of celery and herbs, was spread one-and-a-half inches thick and topped with lettuce on wheat bread. The tuna salad itself was a good consistency and had great flavor, but for the price it felt like it could use some extra vegetables.
My friend's avocado turkey wrap ($7.85), also pre-wrapped, had a generous amount of ripe avocado, thin-sliced turkey breast, sliced tomato and a light amount of mayo. It wasn't as substantial as the tuna sandwich but made up for it with flavor and quality ingredients.
The wonton soup ($4.50) had two soft dumplings amid its savory broth and the chili ($4.95), while a bit greasy, had a hearty amount of beans and spicy beef. Our Americanos, made with Kaladi coffee, were sadly watered down.
My second trip I came later in the afternoon to pick up a few sandwiches to go. I tried to order a meatball Parmesan sub ($7.50) but the staff sheepishly said they were out. Same thing for the barbecue chicken ($7.95). It was well past the lunch rush, and I took this as a good sign they had run out of the proper ingredients for the day. I settled on a hot roast beef sub ($7.95) and a hot pastrami sandwich ($7.95).
The roast beef had a nice warmth, as did the soft and slightly chewy hoagie roll. Topped with American cheese, onions, tomatoes along with mustard and a little mayo, the sub was tasty and well-built but not enticing enough to draw me back.
The hot pastrami is a deli standard that will always deliver for me if prepared correctly. The first offense at Pil's: no rye bread. My pastrami was served on the same hoagie-style roll as my roast beef came on. Second offense: If there was Russian dressing, I couldn't taste it. The menu doesn't advertise those typically standard accompaniments, so maybe that's just the way they do it at Pil's. The sandwich did come with layered pastrami, white American cheese, onions and mustard. I'd only order it again after asking the counter staff if rye and Russian dressing were available.
Pil's seems to be "The Little Deli That Could," and I'd venture to guess a mix of friendly service, location, convenience and a straightforward menu fuels its longevity engine. The food was tasty enough and the smiles bright enough that I plan on giving Pil's a few more visits. After all, with nearly 20 years in business, they must be doing something right.
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By Barry Piser
bpiser@adn.com