Three years ago I reviewed Kimchi, a Korean restaurant opened by Peter Park, the man behind Peter's Sushi Spot. I figured if Park could build an empire on raw fish, he could help get Alaskans hooked on Korea's unique flavors.
The sushi bar was packed with customers until the day it was destroyed by a fire, but Kimchi suffered from slow business and closed. While there are still other Korean restaurants in Anchorage (Most notably VIP), I wondered if the cuisine's appeal would stay limited.
From a strip mall on Northern Lights Boulevard and Minnesota Drive, Home Town is doing its part to satisfy diners who are looking for traditional Korean tastes or expanding their western palates.
The restaurant is owned by Ikje and Young Choi, a husband and wife team that act as the restaurant's server and cook, respectively. Ikje said the restaurant has been around for seven years, but has been in their hands for the last nine months. While Ikje said the majority of its business comes from Korean customers, he said he's been seeing an increase in new faces recently.
On my first visit, my friend and I came by for a late dinner. Inside the restaurant was well lit and clean, with a couple tables occupied by groups chatting in Korean.
The menu had plenty of exotic dishes such as spicy ox feet ($19.95), cod intestine stew ($16.95) and pan-fried chicken gizzard with garlic ($11.95) alongside plates I was more familiar with such as Korean barbecue beef and spicy barbecue pork (both $15.95) and short ribs ($19.95).
When asked about the beef brisket (two-order minimum, $19.95 a piece), Ikje explained that diners cook the dish themselves table side. We ordered it, along with some dumplings ($11.95).
First out were the banchan, a traditional serving of small dishes. The eight bowls contained cabbage, cucumber and radish variations of Kimchi, Korea's spicy, pickled national dish, sliced cucumber, anchovies, pickled jalapenos, macaroni salad and a spiced mix of hotdog slices and mushrooms.
From the signature salty-sour kick of the kimchi treats to the mild flavor of the sliced cucumbers, we gobbled up most of the small servings.
Next out was the brisket. A large oval plate came out piled high with sliced pink and white meat. A little thicker than a stick of gum and about as big around as a rodeo belt buckle, it was rolled into loose cigars. Ikje also brought out a gas-powered hot plate with an oiled surface, a saucer of sliced garlic and jalapenos, bowls of purple rice (a healthier mix of black and sweet rice, he explained), iced leafs of romaine lettuce, a pile of sliced green onions flavored with chilies, a spicy sauce made with soybeans and another made with sesame oil, salt and pepper.
As the meat sizzled away, we flipped them with chopsticks. Ikje instructed us to construct our wraps by filling the romaine with rice and topping with the cooked brisket, the sauces and the green onions. The gooey rice helped keep it together and the flavor of the tender beef was still able to standout. My favorite combination included the soybean spread and a sprinkling of jalapeno slices for extra kick.
We struggled to make it through three-quarters of the meat on our plate, there was easily enough for three or four people. We accepted a takeout box for the remainder of the raw meat, but I'm not sure how I will use it at home.
The plate of nearly a dozen dumplings arrived while we were still working on the main course and had to compete for space with the banchan bowls and the hot plate. Lightly browned on the sides, they had a mild, sweet taste that was a counter to the meal's spice. After dinner we were served a complimentary cold cup of sweet rice tea. Its mellow flavor was a nice palate cleanser and close to the meal.
I made another trip for lunch with a friend. It was close to 1 p.m., but we were the only people inside. A neon marker board listed the barbecue dishes marked down as lunch specials. I went with the spicy squid and vegetables ($9.95). After being told the barbecue beef was unavailable, my friend ordered the spicy barbecue pork ($9.95).
First out was eight bowls of banchan. This batch also included sesame broccoli, seaweed and bean sprouts.
My squid was in a light sauce with slices of carrots and cabbage. The tentacles were tender and the orange sauce had a smoky flavor that was tasty but not that spicy.
The pork was incredibly soft, served on a bed of sliced white and green onions. It too was smoky and sweet, not very spicy. We couldn't get enough of the meal, easily cleaning our plates. We also finished off several of the banchan bowls and they were promptly replaced, a courtesy I can't remember receiving at other eateries.
Home Town might not elevate kimchi to the popularity level of the sushi roll, but its warm atmosphere, attentive service and flavorful dishes should win Korean food some new followers and satisfy those who already seek it out.
Home Town
***½ $$
Location: 3020 Minnesota Drive, #17
Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Phone: 277-2211
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By Spencer Shroyer
sshroyer@adn.com