Firetap Alehouse at the Tikahtnu Commons endeavors to be all things to all people.
It's a sports bar with a dozen flat-panel TVs and an assortment of beers on tap, or it's a sit-down, family-style restaurant with a dedicated kids' menu (think corn dogs, pizza and noodles with butter), mid-priced menu items for the parents and a crayons-brandishing wait staff. It can also be a convenient place for a quick bite with friends before or after a movie -- the restaurant shares a parking lot with the Regal Tikahtnu theater -- or while out shopping at nearby Target or Best Buy.
Firetap has been on the South Anchorage scene since 2009. The restaurant's Tikahtnu location opened in September, and judging by the crush of patrons both nights I was there, it was a welcome addition to the east side.
I perused the Urbanspoon ratings online before dinner, and frankly, they did not inspire confidence. "Would have had better food and service across the parking lot at McDonald's." "I don't think the owners know how to run a great restaurant. Can't understand why people still go here." "This place is in need of some new servers, food, and attitudes."
I was concerned, but resolved to remain open-minded. I'm glad I did, because Firetap does several things quite well.
While being ignored by the hostess did not bode well initially -- despite standing about a foot in front of her with no other patrons in the entry area -- the situation improved once we were seated. The restaurant is clean, airy and comfortable. High ceilings, dark surfaces and clean lines lend it a decidedly modern feel.
The spacious dining area was easily three-quarters full, but a friendly waitress was over to take our drink orders almost immediately.
The menu is extensive and could best be described as dressed-up bar fare (chicken wings, $11.75; a hot pretzel with cheese, $4.75; crab and artichoke dip, $15; sweet potato fries, $8) and new American comfort food (baked macaroni and cheese, $8; roasted chicken with mashed potatoes and vegetables, $16; and an assortment of sandwiches, salads and gourmet pizzas). It is also heavy on the carbohydrates, so if you're following a low-carb diet or are gluten intolerant, you may have better luck elsewhere.
My husband considered ordering the Thai chicken pizza ($14.95 for a small), but eventually decided on the Tuscan-style chicken pasta ($14.75). After much hemming and hawing, I ordered the caramelized roasted pork loin with garlic mashed potatoes and oven-roasted veggies ($16).
Service was relatively swift. Though I'm normally not a fan of TV while I eat, I did not find the televisions distracting and was happy to take in a basketball game while we waited for our entrees.
Overall, we were both quite pleased with our choices. My husband's pasta boasted al dente noodles swimming in a roasted garlic cream sauce. Briny Kalamata olives provided a nice counterpoint to the rich sauce, while the chicken was moist but a little bland. The portion was generous -- enough to take a little home -- but not an obscene amount of food.
Consisting of carrots, cauliflower and broccoli, my veggies were limp and flavorless, steamed as opposed to roasted. The mashed potatoes had a nice kick from the garlic, but were a little on the gummy side. An otherwise mediocre entrée was saved by the pork loin, which was moist, flavorful and fork tender. The caramelized, crispy exterior and velvety interior complemented each other perfectly.
On our second trip, we were greeted promptly. Service was again friendly and attentive. In the mood for appetizers as opposed to a square meal, we decided on a small order of nachos ($9.50) with chorizo ($3.25 extra) and a small Firetap classic salad ($8.75) with spinach, provolone, bacon, hard-boiled egg slices, tomatoes and red onion served with Dijon vinaigrette dressing.
I was glad we ordered the small nachos because it was plenty for both of us. Cheese, black beans, corn and jalapenos were covered with a thick layer of cheese and topped with pico de gallo, sour cream and guacamole. The dish boasted a delicious roasted flavor courtesy of the restaurant's stone oven. The chorizo seamlessly integrated an extra layer of richness and spice to an already tasty dish.
We were both pretty lukewarm on the salad. The greens were nice and fresh, but the cheese was rubbery and the salad dressing tasted like it came from a bottle. It wasn't terrible, but I wouldn't order it again.
In my experience, Firetap's negative reputation on Urbanspoon is undeserved. While it has some kinks to work out -- a less carb-heavy menu and better attention paid to plating and presentation would be a start -- I enjoyed my dining experience overall. Whether you're a beer-and-sports aficionado or a busy parent with kids in tow, Firetap offers reasonable prices and friendly service at a convenient location.
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By Carly Horton Stuart
Daily News correspondent