EAGLE RIVER -- Visit this eatery on a holiday like Mother's Day, and it's clear that you're stepping into a local institution. If you came to Johann's early on this Sunday -- or after the rush, catching the last hour of service between 2 and 3 p.m. -- you might walk right to a table. In between, you could wait for 40 minutes or so.
The country diner's addition of Sunday service has proved quite popular. It suits the easygoing ambience of the place, a converted feed store that was prettied-up without shaking off its sensibilities. Old-timey signs from the '50s make simple appeals for CANDY, MILK SHAKES, ROOT BEER, and potted plants sprout from most nooks and crannies. Salt and pepper shakers seem straight from Route 66 -- ours were tiny ceramic barbecue grills.
On an earlier visit, we found ourselves eye-to-eye with a fine brass rooster sporting real feathers. He's just one of the megakitsch chickens that have come home to roost here. The dining room is dotted with wooden armoires, potted plants and lots of ceramic doodads that create the aura of Grandma's house -- a tone reinforced by mismatched but elegant wooden tables and chairs and walls painted a soothing lavender.
Grandma would recognize the food too: beautiful plates of eggs and bacon, French toast and chicken-fried steak with country gravy (prices vary). The restaurant opens early, so it's no surprise that breakfast rises and shines in this cozy neighborhood spot.
Though far from the American South, this kitchen is undaunted by biscuits and sausage gravy ($3 each), producing biscuits that are delectably light and slathered with meaty gravy that's not a bit greasy. (You may think grease is a worthy component of this dish, but get over it. Your cardiologist may even let you have seconds.)
Eggs and meats, pancakes and French toast come packaged in various combos, including the Johann Special. That's two eggs and your choice of meat (three strips of bacon, three sausages, ham, Polish or reindeer sausage) with sides of hash browns and toast ($6.50; a skillet version includes three eggs scrambled with a biscuit and gravy for $9).
Johann's staff stretches beyond Grandma's family- style meals. Eggs Benedict ($10; half order $5.50) are nicely presented and perfectly poached, though the hollandaise seemed a little bland and the sprinkle of parsley a little perfunctory. For an extra $3, you can get a nice fruit plate, again charmingly presented.
Lunch features include a French dip (all whole sandwiches are $9, $5 for a half), delicious on crisp French bread, and a Montana panini with turkey that suffered some from "avocado sauce" that arrived with a gray tinge despite being ordered at an early lunch. (Memo to kitchen: Got lemon?)
Thai chicken salad (large $10, small $8), on the special Sunday menu was fresh and healthy, though a splash of ginger dressing and a sprinkle of coconut is pretty minimalist Thai. (The pear salad is better.)
At dinner, an inspired chicken pot pie (made from scratch) comes with an aura of tarragon and a fruit plate ($12).
Service is friendly to the point of intimate. And a banquet room upstairs is nearly complete, with room for the biggest family parties.
• Play dining reviewer Mike Peters can be reached at mpeters@adn.com.
Johann's Restaurant & Cottage Catering
Location: 11901 Old Glenn Highway, Eagle River
Hours: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday
Phone: 696-7222
Web: www.johanns-restaurant. com
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By Mike Peters
mpeters@adn.com