Qaqamiigux: Traditional Foods and Recipes from the Aleutian and Pribilof Islands
By Suanne Unger (in collaboration with others); Aleutian Pribilof Islands Association Inc.; 2014; 381 pages; $55 hardcover; $9.99 e-book.
This gorgeous book is so much more than its title might suggest. Far surpassing the usual regional cookbook, it celebrates Aleut food with historical and cultural information of broad interest to Alaskans in general. The photos and overall design are top-quality, and the shared wisdom and values are widely applicable. Dozens of individuals contributed to the overall effort.
The Unangan or Aleut word "qaqamiigux" roughly translates as "to hunt or fish for food and collect plants" or, as we've come to call it, "subsistence."
The genesis of the book came from concern that Alaska Natives (here, specifically those of the Aleutian and Pribilof Islands) were losing many traditional ways, including those related to gathering, preparing and sharing foods, with the passing of elders. Part of the concern was health-related; store-bought foods simply don't match the nutritional quality of local foods, and the consumption of Pop-Tarts and frozen pizzas doesn't help physical fitness, either.
The concern, though, went beyond health. Food and what we do with it help define who we are, no matter our culture. In the book's introduction, Atkan Crystal Stetzof Dushkin says, "Traditional foods are important because traditional foods are one of the last things that we have left to remind us what it means to be Unangax."
The volume begins with a section on the benefits (and sometimes risks) of a traditional diet, including a history of the region's dietary changes. All diets change over time — depending on historical events, new technologies, social influences and economics. In this case, many "traditional" recipes were adopted and adapted from foods and methodologies brought by the early Russians. Fry bread, anyone? Salted fish?
Yummy least auklets
Nutritional charts make clear just how much of the good things — protein, fiber, the right kind of fats, and vitamins — are found in meats, fish and wild greens harvested on the islands and in nearby waters. Food safety is covered in this section.
The bulk of the book, though, is devoted to extensive practical information about harvesting and preparing traditional foods. These foods include the obvious — seals, salmon, cod, reindeer, ducks, geese and kelp — along with those less familiar to urban dwellers. Least auklets probably don't find their way onto many of our plates but are a delicacy in the Pribilofs, where the little birds summer by the millions; today they're hunted mostly by children swinging bamboo poles to knock them out of the air.
In the plant section, there's a lovely detailed narrative from Nick McGlashan about harvesting roots from mice caches as a child in Akutan. There we can also learn about putting to use in soups and salads the oft-maligned plant known as cow parsnip, putchki or wild celery.
Historical photos of activities like gathering murre eggs from cliffs and building a fish trap are complemented by contemporary photos of people engaged in similar subsistence activities. Some of the latter feature young people practicing their skills at culture camps.
Each recipe — there are hundreds — comes with the story of its origin, many including personal information about its contributor and his or her knowledge of traditional foods. Salmon hash, salmon-filled cream puffs, salmon roll, salmon spread, salmon soup, salmon chowder, salmon pie, salmon patties, salmon liver with mossberries: They're all here with so much more. The smoked salmon quiche adapted to incorporate healthy whole grains and nuts would be a standout at any potluck. Want to make your own salmon caviar? Find directions here.
Colorful dishes
The photos of dishes, too, are completely mouth-watering. What's more beautiful than a salad of colorful wild greens, flowers and berries? Or a blue bowl filled with orange salmon eggs and chopped onion?
Another nice feature of this book is the emphasis on values. Harvesting and preparing foods as described incorporate traditional Aleut values, including the importance of sharing, respect for elders, not being greedy, and taking care of the land and waters. Inserts throughout highlight these values with examples, such as a description of the way fur seal meat from the Pribilofs is shared with family and friends elsewhere, or a quote from Attu's Nick Golodoff about not wasting anything.
Helpful back-of-the-book sections include a glossary, food safety appendices, references and an index.
"Qaqamiigux" can be found at book retailers and libraries or purchased online at the association's website.
Nancy Lord is a Homer-based writer and former Alaska writer laureate. Her books include "Fishcamp," "Beluga Days" and "Early Warming."