Travel

Dramatic architecture and delicious food are just a couple reasons to explore Barcelona

All roads may lead to Rome, but Barcelona is a strong second-place contender. Spain's second city, with its dramatic architecture, vibrant neighborhoods and distinctive Catalan culture, is a magnet for the curious traveler.

Actually, the Catalans in Barcelona identify not with Spain, but with the autonomous region of Catalunya, which has its own flag and language. So it is, indeed, Catalunya's first city.

There are just a few phrases I know in Spanish. The basics: How to order a beer and "where's the bathroom." Thankfully, many service workers speak English. For everyone else, there's a lot of smiling, nodding and pointing going on in the quest to communicate. I know precisely zero words in Catalan.

It's not hard to communicate, though. Partly because of the language barrier, Barcelona is a town that you feel — it goes beyond your native language. After the airport and the train station, my first stop was the giant church, La Sagrada Familia, or "Holy Family."

Designed by Antoni Gaudi, work on the church started in 1883. Construction continues on the church, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. La Sagrada Familia has become the standout landmark of Barcelona. Be sure and plan your visit in advance online or you could be waiting for hours.

It costs more to take one of two small elevators up the tallest spires for incredible views of the city. Since I went on the same day I arrived, I couldn't get a ticket to the elevator. Just a basic ticket, without an audio guide, is 15 euros.

Since I visited on a Sunday, there was a Catholic Mass in Gaudi's crypt underneath the main floor of the church. Of course, the priest led the service in Catalan. There were just a couple of words I understood: "Amen" and "Alleluia."

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But after the service, the priest invited all of the visitors up for a special blessing and took note of where everyone came from: Vietnam, the Philippines, Korea, Germany, Poland, the U.S. and several other cities in Spain.

If you are amazed at Gaudi's building at Sagrada Familia, take a taxi to see Park Güell. The park originally was designed as a residential development by Gaudi. The architecture, the colored tiles and the art nouveau designs, are right out of a Dr. Seuss book.

It was a bit too flamboyant for Barcelona at the time—and was not well-received. But the structures remain and it's a must-see destination, particularly if you are a fan of unique design. Great views of the city can be seen from the terrace since Park Güell rests on a hill.

You don't have to go far to seek out the heart of Barcelona —its neighborhoods. Strolling through the "Gothic" neighborhood, I got an insider tip from Charles Harris-Inman who, with his wife Tracy, operate Spanish Trails Adventures.

"Head to Mosquito for tapas," he said. So I took the metro from my hotel to the Gothic neighborhood and walked down a skinny alley, past all manner of coffee shops, restaurants and ice cream stores. Tucked into one of the spaces was Mosquito, where the menu includes more than 20 small plates (tapas).

Dumplings are their thing, made with local, organic flour. But it's more than that: I opted for short ribs, kimchi and edamame. The bar featured an open kitchen, so the chefs can be seen churning out dumpling after dumpling — it was entertaining and delicious.

Spanish Trails offers a "Tasting Barcelona" walking tour through several neighborhoods, so travelers can get a selection of food and wine from around the region.

"These are definitely out-of-the-way places you wouldn't find on your own," said Harris-Inman.

Since Barcelona is a popular cruise destination, there's no shortage of shops selling gifts and souvenirs. Many of them are located on La Rambla, in the heart of the city. There also are flea markets, street performers and a famous food market, the Boqueria.

For a great view of Barcelona and the neighboring countryside, consider a journey to the Montserrat monastery, located high on a mountain about 40 miles away. There are three parts to a visit, not counting the two-hour train trip from downtown. The Abbey at Montserrat boasts an impressive church and grounds—and hosts an incredible boys' choir. Try to get there when they practice or perform a concert.

After seeing the church and the choir, take the tram uphill to the hiking trails in a national park, with marked paths and plenty of incredible vistas.

Just below the abbey is the "Via Crucis" trail or "Way of the Cross." There are 14 stations on the 1.5 km trail, each with an exquisitely carved sculpture
representing the journey Jesus made from the house of Pilate to his crucifixion site. The sculptures are beautiful, but the mountainside setting is stunning. The rocks on the mountain appear to be carved and polished from a distance, because they are so stark.

Although I flew from London to Barcelona on Norwegian (about $60 one-way), several airlines (including Norwegian) offer nonstops from New York, including American, Delta and United. Once you arrive, it's easy to get around, either with a rental car or on the trains and buses.

Just as the train goes up to Montserrat, you can catch a train to Figueres near the French border for a visit to the Salvador Dali museum, which features an outstanding collection of the artist's work. It's an easy walk from the train station.

On this visit, I stayed at the Hotel Europark, which is a 15-minute walk from the Sagrada Familia. It's also close to the "Girona" underground station, which I found to be a convenient way to get around town.

From the airport to downtown, the "Aerobus" is just 5.90 euros and offers a direct shot to the Plaça de Catalunya, the city center. On a previous trip, we used Airbnb and reserved a nice apartment just off La Rambla.

Spanish Trails offers a wide selection of tours around Barcelona, including kayaking in the Mediterranean Sea, hiking in the Pyrenees and a wine tour of the Penedes region. Tracy Harris-Inman is from Anchorage — so there's a built-in connection between Barcelona and Alaska.

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Whether it's a love of wine, a fascination with Gaudi's whimsical architecture, the thrill of a new city or all of the above, it's easy to place Barcelona near the top of a list of favorite destinations.

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. You can follow him on Twitter (@alaskatravelGRM) and alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

Scott McMurren

Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based marketing consultant, serving clients in the transportation, hospitality, media and specialty destination sectors, among others. Contact him by email at zoom907@me.com. Subscribe to his e-newsletter at alaskatravelgram.com. For more information, visit alaskatravelgram.com/about.

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