Aphid irritation is a certainty each summer. Here’s how best to control them.

Normally, yardeners would be screaming about aphids and the increasing numbers of the bugs’ predators, wasps and yellow jackets. I am not sure, but the excessive winds we have experienced may be one reason you are not seeing high populations of them — yet.

Here is the thing about aphids. They have the ability to produce wingless and winged forms. Apparently the winged forms do not reproduce as much and appear when populations get too large and the colony needs to spread out for food. Is the wind affecting the forms being produced? I am not sure, but I do know winged or wingless populations are increasing and you will start to notice them.

Aphids are amazing creatures, able to produce prodigious numbers of offspring in the blink of an eye. They have sucking mouth parts that break through leaves so the critter can suck out plant juices.

It is the other end of the aphid that causes the most serious of aphid problems. There, two tube structures called cornicles stick out of the sides like dual tailpipes. Attached to the insect’s stomach, this is where the sticky “honeydew” residue is produced. It is a byproduct of their sucking activities and this drips out of these cornicles. It is sugary, which explains why it is sticky when it hits on your cars, decks, lawns and outdoor furniture. Often it attracts a fungus which turns it sooty black. Ugh.

Plants attacked by aphids start to get yellowing leaves. Aphids not only stunt plants by robbing nutrients — the remnants of which become honeydew — they can also be vectors for all manner of viruses. Cucumbers, lettuces, squash, melon, beans, potato, lettuce, beet, chard, and bok choy are crops that often have aphid-transmitted viruses associated with them. The viruses mottle, yellow, or curl leaves and stunt plant growth.

There are two areas of worry. The first are trees. Aphids love birch leaves. When their numbers get high enough they can really cause a mess. Since a lone wingless female aphid can produce a dozen offspring a day, without even being fertilized, things can get out of hand very fast.

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The remedy for this problem is a natural one. Let the yellow jackets and wasps take them out. They love to eat aphids. Unfortunately, this is not always a great solution due to the sap. Find another place to put the cars, trailers and boats. I am not a fan of injecting trees with a systemic pesticide. What happens to the dead aphids and the birds that eat them?

The second concern are the plants which attract these animals more than others, though you can find them on any plant from lettuces to kiwis. I guarantee if you have meadow rue, for example, it will be covered in black aphids, which come in green, yellow, red, brown and black when the winds die down. Squish them by hand, wash them off with water from a hose or spray Neem. They also like to sneak into outdoor greenhouses. The solution here is to put up screening.

Aphids are attracted to the color yellow. You can put yellow food coloring into water and leave pans next to affected plants. Or use double-sided tape around the rims of pots and along edges of raised beds to trap the aphids. They also navigate using the sky. If you put aluminum foil under plants, it messes up their navigation.

All in all, aphids are pretty harmless if you keep an eye on populations. I’ve been able to keep ours in check over the years by simply squishing them. Keep an eye out. Their populations will increase. After all, it is summer.

Jeff’s Alaska Garden Calendar:

Alaska Botanical Garden: Wondering what new things to plant? The botanical garden is the place for you. On July 17 there is a “what is in bloom” walking tour from 6-7 p.m. Registration required. www.abg.org. Check the site out for other activities.

Thin: Don’t delay thinning produce. You know what the mature size of each vegetable is. Make sure yours have room to grow to that size.