Dining review: The Crow’s Nest remains deliciously devoted to old-school refinement

Like most people, I love the week and a half that Alaska calls autumn. The air is crisp, the trees are vibrant, and the darkening skies hold the promise of bonfires and hot drinks. And while birds and tourists are migrating south, this is the time of year when I migrate north — and reclaim the culinary delights of downtown Anchorage from the throngs of summer visitors.

Autumn is also the time of year when my husband and I celebrate our anniversary (I won’t say which, but suffice it to say that cigar bars were still a thing and hairdressers knew what a “Rachel” was.) My relationship with the Crow’s Nest dates back even further to when I came to Anchorage for the first time. The year was 1989 and I drank a Shirley Temple, so you can do the math. So, when my husband told me he had made a reservation at the Crow’s Nest, I was delighted. While we occasionally drop in for a cocktail on our way to a decidedly more casual restaurant, it had been ages since we actually ate in its elegant dining room.

The Hotel Captain Cook clings valiantly to its air of old-school refinement, and I’m here for it. The Crow’s Nest, with its nautical trappings and polished wood, is like a time capsule — but one that still gleams and sparkles. There’s a difference between old-school and out-of-date, and to me, the Crow’s Nest balances on this tightrope beautifully.

We arrived early for a martini at the bar before getting down to the serious business of dining, and I highly recommend this step. This is my favorite place to sip anything, and their cocktails are top-notch. There’s a peculiar kind of ambiance to the space that delights me — a kind of hushed animation that feels both festive and refined.

Everything here is done with just a little bit of ceremony. From the white linens to the bread service to the cunning little amuse bouche that arrives while you’re perusing the menu, it’s the kind of place that reminds you to keep your elbows off the table. But somehow, it doesn’t feel stuffy, just special.

We were feeling splurgy (thank you, martini!), so we decided to share three appetizers because I am genetically hardwired to be unable to pass up oysters whenever they confront me on a menu and because I really, really wanted to try the bone marrow. My husband rounded out our appetizers with the lobster roll.

The oysters ($22) — sourced in Washington state — were plump and briny, but I did not like the roasted fennel sorbet that came alongside. For me it was altogether too sweet. This was easily remedied with a request for a lemon wedge, whereupon I was presented with two lemon halves cunningly wrapped in bright cheesecloth. See? Everything here has swagger. Even the lemons.

The lobster roll ($25) was a delight. Sweet and so, so buttery, with just the right amount of bite to the lobster meat (that is to say, tender and not a bit chewy) nestled into a perfectly proportioned buttermilk roll. And the caviar on top was … well, the caviar on top.

But the bone marrow ($20) was the dish of the night for me. All things being uneven, my husband shared his lobster roll with me but was not interested in sharing my marrow (I’ve learned a few things after 29 years of marriage). Served with grilled bread, fig chutney and horseradish butter, this dish is rich and decadent.

My entrée was the one disappointment of the night. I opted for the Angus beef ribeye ($58) served in a bordelaise sauce, with crushed fingerling potatoes and broccolini. I loved the perfectly prepared sides, and the bordelaise sauce was rich and velvety. However, the steak was a touch overcooked as well as surprisingly tough. Luckily, I had the better part of three appetizers under my belt.

My husband’s black cod ($44), on the other hand, was exceptional. Served with Parisian gnocchi, lobster nage and red mustard greens, this fish was cooked to glistening, flaky perfection. The gnocchi was gently crisped on the outside and creamy within, and I loved the slight bitterness of the greens, which offset the plate’s richness. I did, however, notice that he was less generous with this dish than with the others.

A quick note: We are not sommelier people. I find them intimidating. Generally, I order wine according to familiarity and price point. That said, because our order was all over the place with fish, raw oysters and red meat, we were unsure what to choose. The restaurant’s sommelier recommended a bright and versatile pinot noir that not only worked well with our order but was reasonably priced. A sommelier can be your friend.

We were too stuffed for dessert, but somehow, when our server brought us a complimentary plate of decadent treats, we miraculously found room to enjoy the dense squares of creamy chocolate topped with toasted nuts.

Which brings me to a quick word about value. As a food writer, I eat at places all over the price-point spectrum, from food trucks to diners to fine-dining restaurants. And I know, as you do, that eating out is expensive across the board. So I was pleasantly surprised when I found the prices on the Crow’s Nest menu to be — dare I say — reasonable. As a matter of fact, I happened to take note that their by-the-pound king crab legs were priced lower than another popular and less-refined restaurant in the same high-rent district. After factoring in bread service, an amuse-bouche, and a complimentary dessert along with the atmosphere, table service, view and overall opulence of the experience, I’m putting Crow’s Nest firmly into the “good value” category.

That said, dinner at the Crow’s Nest is special occasion dining. That hasn’t changed, but I think I’ve decided to make more special occasions instead of waiting for them. If, however, you’re a stickler for the rules, I’ve come up with a few occasions for you to justify making reservations: National Drink Wine Day is Feb. 18, National Martini Day is June 19, National Oyster Day is Aug. 5, and National Lobster Day is Sept. 25. You can thank me later.

If you go:

Crow’s Nest

The Hotel Captain Cook

939 W. Fifth Ave.

907-276-6000

https://captaincook.com/dining/crows-nest/

Tuesday-Thursday: 5-10 p.m. (last dinner seating 8:30 p.m.)

Friday-Saturday: 5-0 p.m. (last dinner seating 8:30 p.m.)

**** ½

$$$$