Review: Roberto’s Restaurant and Blue Market AK are hidden gems in Spenard

I love when I’m driving to check out a new restaurant and I start to doubt my GPS. Anchorage is full of gems hidden in unexpected pockets of the city (see: Hong Kong Spirit Food, Fiori d’Italia and Palmeira). Add Roberto’s to the list. Located on the first floor of the Emerald Building (who knew we had such a thing?), the location seems a bit lonely when you first pull into the parking lot. However, after parking in back and circling the building on foot, I found the very discreet main entrance. If it was lonely on the outside, it was bustling within. The word is out.

I was seated in the spare but sleek dining room to wait for my friend and culinary partner in crime, Justin Williams of Justin Eats Alaska. My timing was perfect because by the time I had a chance to settle in and peruse the menu, the last tables were taken and the entrance area began to fill up.

Roberto’s menu is Mexican-themed with a handful of American classics. Burritos and tacos are offered alongside fish and chips, seafood Alfredo, burgers, and steamed clams. There’s really something for everyone. We decided to start by sharing the fried calamari ($18) and habanero wings appetizers ($17). The calamari was a winner. Lightly breaded and perfectly cooked, these were tender and not a bit rubbery as so often happens with this dish. Served alongside a bright and gently acidic lime cilantro aioli, we agreed we would cheerfully order these again.

We were a little less excited about the wings, which we both agreed were too sweet and a bit too saucy. However, I realized after the fact that the wings were described as being served with a barbecue pineapple sauce, so this might have been a user error. We were expecting something more savory with a bit more heat. That said, the wings were well-cooked and meaty. I’d love to see a spicier, saltier version of these on the menu for the non-sweet-tooths among us.

For our entrees, Justin ordered the California burrito ($17) and I opted for the maru-birria ($16). The burrito was massive, stuffed with carne asada, chorizo, cheese, pico de gallo, green salsa and, of course, french fries in lieu of rice and beans. Despite spending lots of time in the Bay Area, this was the first time I understood that french fries are what makes a California burrito a California burrito. As someone who used to tuck a layer of salt and vinegar potato chips into East Coast Italian subs, I admit to a strong fried potato bias. They belong everywhere and I’m glad Roberto’s agrees. Justin was well-satisfied with this wrap and, even after filling up, took half of it home.

If you’re like me and think that the only thing missing from Mexican food is, well, noodles, then the maru-birria is for you. This dish was decadent and homey. A generous bowl of spicy, savory birria consommé was brimming with nicely al dente ramen noodles and huge chunks of cut-with-a-spoon birria seasoned beef. The meat is tender and flavorful and the portion is generous.

[Dining review: Midtown Mexican food options are increasing, and increasingly tasty]

Service was quick and friendly, which deserves mention since the room was packed. Food was flying out of the kitchen quickly and tables were turning over — a plus for the lunch-break crowd.

While you’re in the neighborhood, don’t snooze on another of Anchorage’s hidden gems, located just across the street. Blue Market AK describes itself as an “old-world grocer” with a zero-waste model. In it, you can find bulk items like dried beans, flours and spices that you package yourself in repurposed, donated jars (or you can bring your own containers). They also carry local products including basics like eggs, honey, produce and farm-raised meats as well as more niche items like spicy kimchi from Wild Wellness Farms, kelp chili crisp from Barnacle Seafoods and malt vinegar from Turnagain Brewing. They also offer fresh bakery products from their neighbor, French Oven Bakery, as well as Concoction Breads and Provisions (with gluten-free options).

While there, I scored a huge loaf of caraway-studded rye bread and a trio of (adorable) Swedish reusable dishcloths that are designed to cut down on your paper towel usage. The store also hosts a variety of fun and educational community events (like the Harvest Fest on Oct. 12) and has a 1% Give-Back program benefiting local nonprofits. This is the best kind of retail therapy, offering fun shopping while benefiting the community and the environment.

Blue Market AK has been on my radar for a few years and I had never found time to drop in (partly, in fact, because I couldn’t quite figure out where it was). In the future, I’ll make time. Probably after polishing off a bowl of maru-birria.

If you go:

Roberto’s

1407 W. 31st Ave.

907-440-0820

robertosak.com

Tuesday-Sunday: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

****

$$

Blue Market AK Greengrocer

1406 W. 31st Ave.

907-677-2583

bluemarketak.com

Monday-Friday: 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday-Sunday: 11 a.m.-6 p.m.