Food and Drink

America’s greatest regional hot dogs: A highly subjective guide

The art of the argument is arguably the American way, pervading through every element of our culture, no matter how ridiculous or utterly useless the topic may be. Ever since our forefathers quibbled over throwing perfectly good tea into a harbor, generations have found conflict in our cuisine, from pineapple on pizza to the Cola Wars.

Of all the foods that necessitate heated arguments, perhaps none stokes the fire in the hearts of men quite like hot dogs. Great minds have been reduced to rubble by the philosophical quandary of whether they are sandwiches, despite the fact they’re blatantly not. (They are hot dogs. Respect their individuality.) Friendships have been fractured over the topic of ketchup; families ideologically divided by an ocean of piping-hot chili.

Regional hot dogs styles are like charismatic cult leaders but with toppings. They’re as cherished as sports teams and public transportation - things that unite people under a shared umbrella, an acknowledgment of our brotherhood and community, and used to let everyone else know exactly how terrible they are in comparison.

But dare I suggest something audacious: Perhaps we can learn to love all the hot dogs? For each and every one is beautiful in its own special way. It is an exercise in folly and hubris to pretend one knows all there is to know about hot dogs. They are a canvas for innovation. To rob a hot dog of its potential is to rob ourselves. (Except if we’re talking about ketchup, which is gross.)

Then again, it’s nice to have something silly to argue about for a little while, isn’t it? Perhaps we need something harmless to help us release the pressure of our many frustrations, and maybe that something is a glistening tube of meat.

New York Dog

What’s on it: Brown mustard; choice of sauerkraut, red onion sauce or both.

Where it’s popular: New York City.

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Where to get one: At a street cart on virtually any corner; look for the Sabrett’s umbrella.

New York has a glut of good hot dogs. There are the snappy griddled numbers down at Nathan’s in Coney Island; the extra-plump, all-beef baddies at the city’s nearly extinct kosher-style delis; the reliably cheap “recession dogs” at places that sling them alongside papaya drinks; and many more. But to those born and raised in the city (myself included), the most iconic of all is the “dirty water dog” that can be found on a street corner beneath a blue and yellow umbrella.

“A New York hot dog is a no B.S. kind of hot dog. The guy in the cart doesn’t overdo it with the condiments like a Chicago dog: a little mustard, those tomato onion things, maybe a little sauerkraut if you feel like a hot shot. And that’s all you need. No gimmicks. You can eat it while you’re walking without making a mess of yourself. Try that in Chicago.” - cookbook and pulp noir author Eddie McNamara

New York-Style Hot Dogs

New York City-style hot dogs feature all-beef wieners topped with a tomatoey onion sauce and sauerkraut, and finished with a squiggle of brown mustard. Sold by a company called Sabrett, the sauce can be found at sidewalk carts throughout the city, but you can also make a simple version of it at home.

4 servings (makes 4 hot dogs)

Total time: 30 mins

Storage: Refrigerate the onion sauce for up to 5 days.

INGREDIENTS

For the onion sauce:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion (7 ounces), halved and sliced 1/4-inch thick

1/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus more to taste

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup ketchup

1 tablespoon brown mustard

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

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1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika

pinch ground cinnamon

Freshly ground black pepper

For the hot dogs:

4 all-beef hot dogs, with natural casings

4 hot dog buns

Sauerkraut, for serving

Brown mustard, for serving

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STEPS

Make the onion sauce: In a medium (3-quart) saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and salt and cook, separating the onions and stirring occasionally, until the onions start to soften and brown, about 5 minutes.

In a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, stir together the water, ketchup, mustard, garlic powder, smoked paprika and cinnamon until combined. Add the ketchup mixture to the onions, cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are crisp-tender and the sauce has thickened slightly, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove from the heat, uncover and let the onions cool slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Taste, and season with additional salt and pepper, as desired. You should have about 1 cup.

Make the hot dogs: Bring a medium (3-quart) saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the hot dogs and cook until plump, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

To assemble, place each hot dog in a bun, divide the onion sauce among them, and top with sauerkraut and mustard. Serve immediately.

Substitutions: Instead of making your own onion sauce >> look for store-bought onion sauce, from brands such as Sabrett, which can be found in well-stocked supermarkets or online. Brown mustard >> Dijon or yellow mustard. Garlic powder >> onion powder. Smoked paprika >> sweet paprika. Cinnamon >> allspice or cloves. Vegan? >> Use vegan hot dogs and ground meat. Gluten-free? >> Look for gluten-free hot dog buns.

Nutrition | Per hot dog: 312 calories, 30g carbohydrates, 26mg cholesterol, 18g fat, 2g fiber, 9g protein, 6g saturated fat, 865mg sodium, 5g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

From staff writer Aaron Hutcherson. Onion sauce adapted from Allison Robicelli on the Takeout.

Sonoran

What’s on it: Bacon-wrapped hot dog, bolillo-style bun, beans, onions, tomatoes, mayo, crema, salsa.

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Where it’s popular: Arizona and the Southwest.

Where to get one: El Güero Canelo (Tucson), BK Tacos (Tucson), El Sabroso Hot Dogs (Phoenix), Los Dogos (Los Angeles).

Originating in the capital of Mexico’s Sonora region, this beast of a hot dog combines Mexican and American culinary traditions, with a bacon-wrapped hot dog buried beneath an ocean of condiments. Initially finding stateside popularity in Arizona, this style now dominates the entire Southwest, along with a strong showing in Southern California.

“I love a Sonoran hot dog, probably because it breaks all the rules elitists impose on other kinds. Ketchup! Not just mayo, but crema too! And melted cheese plus a spicy salsa, while everything is cradled in a closed-end bun soft as a baby’s butt imported from Sonora. It’s an indulgence that doesn’t care what anyone else thinks as only an imported hot dog (and L.A.’s immigrant community) can.” food writer Esther Tsang

Sonoran Hot Dogs

Featuring a crispy, griddled, bacon-wrapped hot dog stuffed inside a bolillo (a crusty, football-shaped Mexican roll), the Sonoran hot dog is a popular offering in Tucson and the surrounding areas. Hailing from Hermosillo, the capital city of the dog’s namesake Mexican state of Sonora, this style crossed the border to Arizona in the 1980s. Most versions of the Sonoran dog are topped with pinto beans, chopped tomatoes and onions, salsa verde, mustard, and a squiggle of mayonnaise. You’ll have leftover salsa, which is great to eat with tortilla chips.

4 servings (makes 4 hot dogs)

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Active time: 40 mins; Total time: 1 hour

Make ahead: The jalapeño salsa can be made and refrigerated for up to 3 days in advance. Bring to room temperature before using.

Where to buy: Bolillos can be found in well-stocked grocery stores or Latin American bakeries.

Notes: Bolillos go stale quickly; you can refresh stale rolls by misting them lightly with water and heating them in a 300-degree oven for 5 minutes. Squeeze bottles of mustard and mayonnaise help achieve their signature stripes and zigzags, respectively. Do not use thick-cut bacon here; it won’t crisp as well or render as much fat as thin-cut. If you like and tolerate the spice of the jalapeños, you may want to leave some of the seeds.

INGREDIENTS

For the jalapeño salsa:

10 jalapeños (about 1 pound), stemmed, halved and seeded (see Notes)

1 small white or yellow onion (4 ounces), sliced into 1/2-inch-thick rounds

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola

1 teaspoon fine salt, divided, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 1 to 2 limes)

2 tablespoons water

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

For the hot dogs:

4 pork-and-beef hot dogs

4 thin slices (2 to 3 ounces) bacon

1 (15-ounce) can pinto beans, drained, plus 2 tablespoons canning liquid

Fine salt

4 bolillos (see to buy, and Notes)

1/4 cup finely chopped tomatoes

1/4 cup finely chopped or yellow onion

Yellow mustard (see Notes)

Mayonnaise (see Notes)

STEPS

Make the jalapeño salsa: Position an oven rack 6 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high, if you have a choice. On a large sheet pan, toss the jalapeños, onion, garlic, oil and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt together until combined. Flip the jalapeños, skin side up. (Use food-safe gloves if you have sensitive skin and are concerned about your hands stinging.) Broil for 12 to 14 minutes, or until the vegetables are well charred. Let cool on the pan for 10 minutes.

In a food processor, puree the jalapeño mixture, lime juice, water and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt until smooth, about 30 seconds. Add the cilantro and pulse until combined, about 5 pulses. Season to taste with salt. You should have about 1 3/4 cups.

Make the hot dogs: Wrap each hot dog with 1 strip of bacon, spiraling from end to end, and stretching and overlapping slightly until the hot dog is almost completely wrapped and the bacon seams end up on the same side.

Line a plate with towels. Arrange the hot dogs, bacon seam sides down, in a medium (10-inch) nonstick skillet, set over medium heat and cook, without moving the hot dogs until the bacon is golden brown, about 6 minutes. Continue to cook until the bacon is evenly browned all over, turning the hot dogs as needed, about 6 minutes more. Transfer to the prepared plate and return the skillet to the burner.

Add the beans and their reserved liquid to the fat remaining in the skillet and cook, coarsely mashing about one-third of the beans with a spatula or a large spoon, until heated through and the mixture is creamy, about 3 minutes. Taste and season with salt, as desired.

Cut a slit along the top of each bolillo, stopping just short of the ends, and gently pry the rolls open. Arrange the rolls on a platter, cut sides up. Place the hot dogs in the rolls and evenly distribute the beans among them. Top with the tomatoes and onion. Spoon 1 tablespoon of salsa along the length of each hot dog (reserve the remaining salsa for another use). Drizzle with a stripe of mustard and zigzag of mayonnaise. Serve immediately.

Substitutions: Bolillos >> soft white Italian-style sub rolls, hot dog rolls, or soft supermarket Italian or French bread cut into 7-inch lengths. Jalapeño salsa >> store-bought salsa verde. Cilantro >> parsley. Vegan? >> Use vegan hot dogs and ground meat. Gluten-free? >> Look for gluten-free hot dog buns.

Nutrition | Per hot dog: 338 calories, 17g carbohydrates, 40mg cholesterol, 23g fat, 5g fiber, 16g protein, 8g saturated fat, 1001mg sodium, 2g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from a recipe by Jessica Rudolph, senior editor of Cook’s Country magazine, an America’s Test Kitchen publication.

Chicago Dog

What’s on it: All-beef dog, yellow mustard, chopped raw onions, neon green pickle relish, sliced tomato, pickle spear, pickled sport peppers, celery salt, poppy seed bun.

Where it’s popular: Chicago and the greater Chicagoland area.

Where to get one: Clark St. Dog, Portillo’s, Al’s Drive-In, Kim & Carlo’s.

A quintessential Chicago-style hot dog starts with an all-beef dog (typically from local manufacturer Vienna Beef), and is “dragged through the garden” with enough toppings for outsiders to deride this dog as “salad on a bun.”

“I’d argue that Chicago’s is the most fascinating of all regional hot dogs. It’s a hypercolored thing of beauty with flavors to match, hitting all of your taste senses: sweet, salty, umami, sour and bitter, thanks to the entire produce department on top. Each bite’s texture is just as varied, which gives it yet another dimension of enjoyment that most other foods can’t boast. Every other type of hot dog looks dull in comparison.” food writer Dennis Lee

Chicago-Style Hot Dogs

These authentic Chicago-style hot dogs feature steamed all-beef hot dogs, poppy seed buns and the traditional toppings: yellow mustard, Chicago-style sweet pickle relish, onion, tomato, dill pickle, sport peppers and celery salt (and absolutely no ketchup). Steam the dogs using a steamer basket, then add the buns on top for the last minute of cooking to soften them. Marinated sport peppers, similar to tabasco peppers, are part of a traditional topping for Chicago-style hot dogs.

4 servings (makes 4 hot dogs)

Active time: 20 mins; Total time: 30 mins

Where to buy: Sport peppers can be found in the pickle section of well-stocked grocery stores, or online. Vienna Beef hot dogs and Chicago-style sweet pickle relish can be found online and, depending on the region, grocery stores.

INGREDIENTS

4 Vienna Beef Frankfurters with natural casings (see Substitutions)

4 poppy seed hot dog buns (see Substitutions)

Yellow mustard

2 tablespoons Chicago-style sweet pickle relish, plus more to taste (see Substitutions)

1/4 cup finely chopped white or yellow onion

4 (1/4-inch-thick) tomato slices, halved

4 dill pickle spears

8 sport peppers (see Substitutions)

Celery salt

STEPS

In a large (4-quart) saucepan over high heat, add enough water to the depth of 1 inch and bring to a boil. Carefully place a steamer basket over the boiling water. Add the hot dogs to the basket, cover and reduce the heat to medium. Cook until the hot dogs are heated through, 5 to 7 minutes. Arrange the buns over the hot dogs (overlapping as needed to prevent the buns from touching the basket) and steam, uncovered, until the buns are softened and warmed on the bottom, about 1 minute. Flip the buns and steam to warm through, another 30 seconds. Transfer the buns to a platter and place the hot dogs in buns.

Top each hot dog with a stripe of mustard, 1 1/2 teaspoons of relish (or more if you like), 1 tablespoon of onion, 2 pieces of tomato (tucked against one side of the bun), 1 pickle spear (tucked into the opposite side of the bun) and 2 sport peppers. Sprinkle with the celery salt and serve immediately.

Substitutions: Vienna Beef hot dogs >> another beef hot dog of your choice. Chicago-style sweet pickle relish >> any other sweet pickle relish. Sport peppers >> pepperoncini. Poppy seed hot dog buns >> plain hot dog buns. Vegan? >> Use vegan hot dogs and ground meat. Gluten-free? >> Look for gluten-free hot dog buns.

Nutrition | Per hot dog: 330 calories, 33g carbohydrates, 30mg cholesterol, 15g fat, 2g fiber, 13g protein, 5g saturated fat, 1480mg sodium, 7g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from a recipe by Jessica Rudolph, senior editor of Cook’s Country magazine, an America’s Test Kitchen publication.

Carolina Slaw Dog

What’s on it: Chili, slaw, onions, optional mustard.

Where it’s popular: The Carolinas, West Virginia and across the South.

Where to get one: J.S. Pulliam Barbecue (Winston-Salem, N.C.); Trolly Stop Hot Dogs (Wrightsville Beach, N.C.); Jack’s Cosmic Dogs (Mount Pleasant, S.C.).

The Carolinas aren’t the only states that lays claim to piling these toppings on a hot dog; West Virginia’s formidable frank is nearly identical, save for slight seasoning differences in the chili and slaw. We love them both equally, but for the purpose of entertainment, we are more than happy to spark a hot dog debate between the regions.

“Okay look: North Carolina is a blue-collar place, and that means people put a lot of stock in a fast, cheap lunch. Our dogs are topped with meaty chili and mayonnaise-y slaw: It’s a complete meal. Protein, carbohydrate and a vegetable. We buy them by the sackful. I would bet no other state has as many classic ‘dog places: Pulliam’s in Winston-Salem, Ward’s in Whiteville, Bill’s in Little Washington, Trolley Stop in Wrightsville Beach. We are a hot-dog respecting people.” - food writer and author Kathleen Purvis

Carolina-Style Slaw Hot Dogs

Traditional Carolina-style hot dogs rely on chili, coleslaw and chopped onions for their signature flavor. An addition of yellow mustard is also common but not mandatory. The result is an intense combination of flavors and textures: saucy chili, cooling slaw, crunchy, juicy chopped onions and a snappy hot dog. You may have a little leftover chili; use it to top more hot dogs or eat on its own.

4 servings (makes 4 hot dogs)

Total time: 45 mins

Storage: Refrigerate the chili for up to 4 days; gently rewarm over medium heat before serving. Refrigerate the slaw for up to 2 days.

INGREDIENTS

For the chili:

8 ounces lean ground beef, preferably 80-percent lean

1/2 cup beef broth, preferably no-salt-added

2 tablespoons ketchup

1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon granulated or brown sugar (light or dark)

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/4 teaspoon

1/4 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

For the slaw:

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon honey

1 1/2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

3/4 cup finely chopped green cabbage

2 tablespoons shredded carrot

2 teaspoons finely chopped white or yellow onion

For the hot dogs

4 hot dogs, all-beef or beef-pork blend

4 hot dog buns

2 tablespoons finely chopped white or yellow onion

yellow mustard, for serving (optional)

STEPS:

Make the chili: In a medium (10-inch) skillet over medium heat, cook the beef, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon to break up the meat, until browned and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the broth, ketchup, tomato paste, chili powder, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder and salt, and stir to incorporate. Reduce the heat so the mixture is at a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chili thickens slightly, 25 to 30 minutes.

Make the slaw: While the chili is simmering, in a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, honey and apple cider vinegar until smooth. Add the cabbage, carrots and onion, and toss until combined. You should have about 1 cup slaw. Set aside until ready to serve, or cover and refrigerate until needed.

Make the hot dogs: Prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, set it to 450 degrees. If using a charcoal grill, fill a chimney starter with charcoal, light it, and when the coals are white-gray with ash, pour them onto the charcoal grate, adding more charcoal, if necessary. Put the lid on the grill, making sure the vents are open all the way. When all of the coals are gray and hot, about 15 minutes, your grill should be medium-hot. (Use a grill thermometer, or test the heat by holding your hand, palm-down, about 4 inches from the grate, making sure that nothing flammable, such as clothing, is near the heat. If you can hold it there for about 4 seconds, the heat should be at medium, or about 450 degrees. Pull your hand away from the heat before it gets painful.) Make sure the cooking grates are clean.

When the grill is ready, place the hot dogs on the grates and grill until lightly charred in spots, turning as needed, 5 to 7 minutes total.

To assemble the hot dogs, place each grilled dog inside a bun. Top each with about 2 tablespoons of the chili, 2 tablespoons of the slaw and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the chopped onions. Drizzle with yellow mustard, if desired, and serve.

Substitutions: Vegan? >> Use vegan hot dogs and ground meat. Gluten-free? >> Look for gluten-free hot dog buns.

Nutrition | Per hot dog: 385 calories, 27g carbohydrates, 49mg cholesterol, 25g fat, 1g fiber, 12g protein, 8g saturated fat, 747mg sodium, 7g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from the Martin’s Famous Potato Rolls and Breads website.

Coney Island Dog

What’s on it: Pork and beef hot dog, ground beef heart chili, mustard, onion, optional cheese.

Where it’s popular: All across Michigan.

Where to get one: American Coney Island (Detroit); Lafayette Coney Island (Detroit); Jackson Coney Island (Jackson, Mich.); Starlite Coney Island & Diner (Burton, Mich.).

You won’t find anything resembling a Coney dog in Coney Island; this style is straight from the Great Lakes State, created by early-20th-century Greek immigrants who wanted to stake their claim to the American Dream with an affordable food concept. Hot dogs may have been introduced in Coney Island, but you’d be hard-pressed to find a Michigander who doesn’t believe they perfected it.

“The Coney is as legendary as the city that birthed it - the soft steamed bun, barely holding it together against the weight of the naturally cased frank smothered in spiced beef chili enriched by the tender meat of the heart topped with a drizzle of neon yellow mustard and crisp diced white onion. It’s American folk - the holy communion of Detroit. There is no substitution for the soulful, satisfying, sometimes messy but always delicious beacon of the Motor City, especially when consumed under the fluorescent glow of the counter at 2 a.m.” - Mabel Grey chef James Rigato

Coney Island Hot Dogs

A Detroit-style Coney Island beef-and-pork hot dog features a creamy, beefy chili sauce topped with mustard and lots of chopped onions. The name originated with the Greek and Macedonian immigrants who came to the United States through New York in the early 1900s. They observed the successful hot dog stands of Coney Island before settling around the country and opening their own establishments, calling them “Coney Islands.” Although the style of hot dog commonly sold in New York was relatively unadorned, the new Coney Island restaurateurs usually topped hot dogs with a meaty chili sauce inspired by cooking traditions from their home countries.

4 servings (makes 4 hot dogs)

Total time: 1 hour 5 mins

Make ahead: The chili sauce can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 3 days in advance, or frozen for up to 1 month. Reheat over medium-low heat; if the fat separates, stir in water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until recombined.

Where to buy: Dearborn and Koegel’s hot dog brands can be ordered online.

Notes: The saltines can be crushed by hand; any large pieces will disintegrate.

INGREDIENTS

For the chili sauce:

6 ounces ground beef, preferably 80-percent lean

1 cup water

1/4 cup finely chopped yellow or white onion

3 saltine crackers, crushed (see Notes)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon fine salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar

Pinch ground allspice

For the hot dogs:

1 teaspoon neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola

4 beef-and-pork hot dogs with natural casings (see Substitutions)

4 hot dog buns

yellow mustard

1/2 cup finely chopped yellow or white onion

STEPS

Make the chili sauce: In a small (2- or 3-quart) saucepan, combine the beef and water, and stir with a fork until the beef is broken into very small pieces. Stir in the onion, saltines, tomato paste, Worcestershire, paprika, chili powder, granulated garlic, onion powder, salt, pepper, sugar and allspice until combined.

Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is creamy and has the consistency of thick gravy, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm. You should have about 1 1/2 cups.

Make the hot dogs: In a medium (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the hot dogs and cook until browned all over, rolling or turning as needed, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a plate.

Working in batches as needed, slightly open the buns and add them to the skillet so the inside can toast. Cook until warmed and lightly toasted on the inside, about 1 minute. Transfer to a platter and place the hot dogs in the buns. Distribute the chili sauce evenly among the hot dogs (about 1/3 cup each). Top with mustard and sprinkle with the onions. Serve immediately.

Substitutions: Dearborn and Koegel’s are the preferred brands of hot dogs here. If you can’t find them, look for dogs that are a blend of beef and pork and have a natural casing, which is essential to achieve the signature snap of a Detroit-style Coney dog. Vegan? >> Use vegan hot dogs and ground meat. Gluten-free? >> Look for gluten-free hot dog buns.

Nutrition | Per hot dog (with 2 tablespoons chili): 294 calories, 25g carbohydrates, 33mg cholesterol, 17g fat, 1g fiber, 11g protein, 6g saturated fat, 707mg sodium, 3g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from a recipe by Jessica Rudolph, senior editor of Cook’s Country magazine, an America’s Test Kitchen publication.

Seattle Dog

What’s on it: Dense toasted bun; cream cheese; grilled onions.

Where it’s popular: Seattle.

Where to get one: Various street vendors outside T-Mobile Park/Lumen Field, Matt’s Hot Dogs, Monster Dogs.

Seattle’s signature style was created not to elevate the hot dog with toppings, but rather to use the hot dog as a topping. It was invented in 1988 at a street cart specializing in bagels with cream cheese. When customers began requesting meatier toppings, owner Hadley Long went with hot dogs, which were more cart-friendly than bacon or breakfast sausage. The bagels were soon exchanged for a hearty, bialy-inspired bun and became a hit with drunken late-night crowds.

“The best Seattle dogs are large, split or slashed franks cooked over an open flame so their edges get crisp and charred. The buns should be heartier than a standard hot dog bun, charred on the flame, and spread with softened cream cheese as soon as it comes off the griddle so that the cream cheese melts and adds a light, lubricating tang. The Frank gets topped with onions, which are best when they’re started on a fire then set aside to slowly stew and caramelize, melting in with the cream cheese and forming a sort of impromptu French onion dip. My advice? If you find a street vendor with a line and an open flame, you’ll do okay.” chef and cookbook author J. Kenji López-Alt

Seattle-Style Hot Dogs

Seattle’s griddled, butterflied dogs, with a topping of cool cream cheese and sauteed onions, are perhaps one of the lesser-known American regional hot dog styles. They came to be in the late 1980s, when a late-night street cart selling cream cheese-schmeared bagel sticks in Pioneer Square added hot dogs to the mix. These days, some versions may have additional sauteed veggies, such as cabbage or jalapeños, but all include a generous application of cream cheese. Most stands in the city also encourage patrons to customize their dogs with extra condiments: Ketchup and mustard are standard but so are sriracha, barbecue sauce and sliced jalapeños.

4 servings (makes 4 hot dogs)

Total time: 30 mins

INGREDIENTS

4 all-beef hot dogs

1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola, plus more as needed

1 cup (4 ounces) thinly sliced white or yellow onion

Pinch fine salt

4 hot dog buns

2 to 4 ounces cream cheese, softened

Ketchup, mustard, sriracha, barbecue sauce, and/or sliced fresh or jarred jalapeños, for topping (optional)

STEPS

Split each hot dog lengthwise, stopping short of cutting completely in half, so they are hinged on one side (like an open book).

In a medium (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until just smoking. Add the onion and salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is well browned and softened but still has some texture, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer the onion to a bowl; cover to keep warm.

Reduce the heat to medium. Place the hot dogs cut-side down in the skillet, and cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip the hot dogs over and cook just until lightly browned and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate.

Working in batches as needed, lightly brush the inside of the buns with oil and place in the skillet so the inside is face-down. Cook, still over medium heat, until warmed and lightly toasted, about 1 minute. Transfer to a platter, and repeat with the remaining buns as needed.

Spread one-quarter of the cream cheese evenly over the interior of each bun. Add the hot dogs, and top with onions, as well as any of the other toppings of your choice. Serve immediately.

Substitutions: Vegan? >> Use vegan hot dogs and ground meat. Gluten-free? >> Look for gluten-free hot dog buns.

Nutrition | Per hot dog (with 1/2 ounce cream cheese each): 325 calories, 25g carbohydrates, 39mg cholesterol, 22g fat, 1g fiber, 10g protein, 8g saturated fat, 682mg sodium, 4g sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

Adapted from a recipe by Jessica Rudolph, senior editor of Cook’s Country magazine, an America’s Test Kitchen publication.

Other regional styles

Cincinnati Coney (beef and pork hot dog, cinnamon-spiked Cincinnati chili, chopped onion, shredded cheese): This drive-through menu staple is a Coney Dog that’s generously topped with a pile of shredded cheddar cheese for the full Cincinnati-style chili experience.

Pittsburgh Dog (beef hot dog, coleslaw, provolone, french fries): Packing all the components of a full meal into one portable sandwich, this hot dog is a quick, efficient lunch that’s the right blend of practicality and indulgence.

Rhode Island “New York System” Dog (beef, pork and veal hot dog; steamed side-sliced bun; meat sauce; mustard; chopped onion; celery salt): Best served alongside an ice cold glass of coffee milk, these dogs have a serious snap thanks to the natural casing stuffed with three types of seasoned ground meat.

Newark Italian Style Dog (beef hot dog, Italian bread, fried potatoes, sauteed onions and peppers): This hot dog is made with a special roll called “pizza bread.” Found in Northern New Jersey’s Italian bakeries, it’s sturdy enough to contain a mountain of peppers and onions.

Baltimore Bologna Dog (beef hot dog, griddled beef bologna, mustard): Charm City may not have as many Jewish delis as it did a century ago, but this extra-meaty hot dog is still holding strong at those that remain. Some may say two types of beef sausage in a single bun are unnecessary, but those people are fools.

Georgia Scrambled Dog (chopped hot dog, chili, onions, pickles, oyster crackers): This regional dog eschews the bun entirely, serving everything in an oval bowl with a generous smattering of oyster crackers for carbs.

Half Smoke (D.C.) (smoked beef and pork sausage, chili, onions, mustard): Technically, the half smoke is a sausage, not a hot dog, but as this spicy link is a hometown favorite in the nation’s capital, we’ll allow it.

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Recipes adapted from Jessica Rudolph, senior editor of Cook’s Country magazine, an America’s Test Kitchen publication; staff writer Aaron Hutcherson; and Martin’s Famous Potato Rolls and Breads.

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