Celebrate Copper River salmon with this simple, delicious recipe

A few years ago, I had the honor of spending time with the tight-knit community of gillnetters in Cordova to learn more about Copper River salmon. I’ve lived and traveled in some amazing places around the world, but I was not prepared for the truly awesome and unique beauty, not only of the region but of the people, and sense of place and belonging that is Cordova. So when I learned that this year is the 40th anniversary of Copper River king salmon making its way out of Alaska waters and onto the plates of diners across the country in all its freshness, I wanted to honor this milestone with a look at some favorite recipes and offer up another one. Prior to 1983, Copper River kings and sockeye were all canned for the domestic market and some were frozen for the Japanese market; it was not available as a fresh product.

When it comes to cooking their local bounty, the Copper River fishermen opt for a simple-is-best approach, although they acknowledge that the inherent richness of salmon stands up to a variety of big and bold flavors. Think sesame-sizzled and miso-glazed or mustard-maple marinated and barbecue-slathered. I recently roasted a gorgeous fillet with a thin layer of yogurt — although mayo or sour cream could work in a pinch — with hits of ginger and turmeric, lime and garlic and served it forth with a fresh summer watermelon-cucumber salad. Simple and delicious while honoring the beauty of the Copper River, its people and its plenitude.

Roasted Copper River salmon

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 (2-pound) fillet wild Copper River king or sockeye salmon, pin bones removed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup thick plain yogurt (or sour cream or mayonnaise)

Zest and juice of 1 lime (or lemon or orange), plus more for serving

1 teaspoon ground turmeric (or hot Madras curry powder or garam masala)

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, freshly grated

2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced

1 to 2 teaspoons chile crisp or other hot paste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 small pieces

Optional additions: small tomatoes on the vine, zucchini or carrot slices, olives

For salad: watermelon, cucumber, tomato or mango or peach, red onion, fresh mint, olive oil, orange or lime zest and juice

• If roasting in oven, heat oven to 425 degrees. If grilling, light grill to medium-high heat. Pat salmon dry and season fillet lightly with salt and pepper; place on a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil or directly onto a large cast-iron skillet. If desired, score a diamond pattern, using tip of a sharp knife, all over fillet, being careful not to cut all the way through. Add some tomatoes on the vine or other vegetables to the skillet but not on top of salmon, and drizzle vegetables lightly with olive oil.

• In a small bowl, whisk together yogurt, lime zest and juice, turmeric, paprika, ginger, garlic and chile crisp. Slather top of fillet with yogurt-spice mixture. Divide cubed butter evenly over salmon and roast or grill for 10 to 14 minutes depending on thickness of fillet. Cook until salmon is opaque in center and flakes easily with a fork. Note: If preparing ahead of time, place seasoned fillet in fridge, uncovered, up to 1 hour until ready to cook.

• While fish is cooking, toss together a quick salad of fresh watermelon, cucumber, red onion, perhaps some peach or mango and fresh mint or cilantro and top with grated orange or lime zest and juice and good extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper. Serve salmon and salad with extra limes and herbs, some yogurt tzatziki, steamed rice or noodles.

[Make salty, crispy skin the star of your salmon dinner]

[Roasted potatoes with a toasty Parmesan crust make for an affordable, irresistible snack]

[Quick pickles are a crunchy, tangy accompaniment to dozens of spring dishes]