Riffing on a classic French tarte Tatin generates buttery, caramelized sweet and savory options

I’ve been riffing on this classic French apple tarte Tatin for years. Named after the Tatin sisters of Orléans, who accidentally flipped their intended dessert and served it to great applause, turning it into a legendary triumph. For a savory version, I love the bitterness of Belgian endive against the buttery, flaky pastry that caramelizes with just a bit of sugar and citrus. Look for blemish-free spears of endive with tightly packed leaves that aren’t too water-logged. As for sweeter versions, note that peaches and other summer fruit will have more juice and liquid compared to vegetables, i.e., endive and onion, so take care to use ripe but firm peaches — they’ll retain their shape better — and to allow time to reduce the liquid and caramel in order to avoid the dreaded soggy bottom. It helps to drain any excess liquid from the fruit before flipping it out. Make sure to use a heavy-bottomed ovenproof skillet with high sides, about 2 inches.

It takes a few times making this to perfect both the amount of liquid and the flip. You might want to try the savory version first, maybe even add some sliced onion with the endive, which is more forgiving as it releases less liquid than juicy fruit. As for the flip, gather all your muster to carefully and quickly turn the tart over. All-butter puff pastry is best. If you’re into making your own rough puff, have at it. For store-bought, Natural Pantry in Anchorage often carries Dufour all-butter pastry in the freezer section. I usually buy several boxes to keep on hand in the freezer. Alternatively, use your favorite pie crust recipe. Serve the endive tart as is or dollop with crème fraîche or fresh soft goat cheese alongside a green leaf salad tossed in a zingy vinaigrette. The peach version pairs well with whipped cream, crème fraîche, vanilla ice cream or vanilla custard sauce.

Endive tart

1 (14-ounce) package frozen all-butter puff pastry, such as Dufour, thawed

6 to 8 medium-to-large endive

7 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme or rosemary

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice (or lemon juice)

Optional garnishes: cured black olives; fresh herbs; goat cheese; orange zest; crème fraîche

• On a lightly floured clean kitchen surface, using a rolling pin, roll dough into an 11-to-12-inch round or square, depending on size of pan using, about 1/8-inch thick. Transfer dough to a sheet pan and cut 3 two-inch slits across center of dough and place in fridge until ready to use. Cut endive lengthwise in half with core intact.

• Heat oven to 400 degrees. Smear butter across bottom of a heavy-bottomed 10-to-11-inch well-seasoned or non-stick ovenproof skillet with 2-inch high sides set over medium heat. Sprinkle sugar over butter and stir or swirl pan until sugar is mostly dissolved. Add endive and season with salt and pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg. Turn endive occasionally until coated all over and edges begin to wilt, about 5 minutes. Adjust heat so butter and sugar do not burn. Arrange endive cut side down and allow to cook, shaking and swirling pan to avoid sticking, about 10 minutes or so. Endive should be golden and softened and some of the liquid starting to evaporate. Adjust heat accordingly. Sprinkle fresh orange or lemon juice over. Shake pan to loosen any endives that might stick to bottom of pan. Remove from heat. Place skillet on a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil; this helps with excess drippings. Remove rolled dough from fridge and place quickly over endives, using a silicone spatula to help tuck dough into sides of skillet; make sure slits are cut into top of dough. Place sheet pan with tart in oven and let cook, about 25 to 35 minutes, until pastry is golden brown and cooked through. Remove from oven and let sit 5 to 10 minutes. Cover pan with a plate slightly larger than the skillet or a cutting board and carefully and quickly flip pan over onto cutting board. Remove pan. Gently nudge any wayward endives back into place using a spatula or spoon. Note: If you wait too long to invert and bottom congeals, shake pan slightly. If it feels like bottom is sticking, place pan on burner and warm bottom slightly until bottom starts to liquify just slightly before flipping over and out onto a cutting board or plate. Serve warm or at room temp with optional garnishes.

Peach upside down tart

1 (14-ounce) sheet frozen all-butter puff pastry, thawed

6 to 7 just ripe peaches (about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds), halved and pitted (no need to peel)

1 tablespoon sugar, plus 1/3 cup

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 lemon, juice and zest

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Fresh thyme sprigs; lavender or lemon verbena

Serve with: whipped cream; crème fraiche, ice cream or vanilla custard sauce

• On a lightly floured clean kitchen surface, using a rolling pin, roll dough into an 11-to-12-inch round or square, depending on size of pan using, about 1/8-inch thick. Transfer dough to a sheet pan and cut 3 two-inch slits across center of dough and place in fridge until ready to use. Transfer dough to a sheet pan and cut three two-inch slits across center of dough and place in fridge until ready to use. Toss halved and pitted peaches with 1 tablespoon sugar together in a large bowl; let sit, tossing occasionally to help release some juices, about 20 to 30 minutes.

• Heat oven to 400 degrees. Smear butter across bottom of a heavy-bottomed 10-to-11-inch well-seasoned or non-stick ovenproof skillet with 2-inch high sides set over medium heat. Scatter remaining 1/3 cup sugar and a pinch of salt over butter, stirring often and until thickened slightly to a loose syrup, about 5 minutes. Lower heat if butter begins to scorch or brown too quickly. Add lemon juice and zest, along with vanilla bean, scraping seeds into skillet first. When liquid is thick and syrupy, add peaches — reserving juices in bowl — cut side down, tucking them tightly together; cook over medium heat about 5 minutes so juices release. Carefully remove peaches back to bowl with a slotted spoon. Continue to cook caramel over medium heat another 5 minutes until nice and thick and light amber-colored. If getting too thick, add some of the reserved peach liquid from bowl, but not too much. Return peaches, this time cut side-up, to skillet. Let cook another 5 to 7 minutes over medium, depending on softness of peaches; take care to not overcook them as they will bake in oven. Place skillet on a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil; this helps with excess drippings. Remove rolled dough from fridge and place quickly over peaches, using a silicone spatula to help tuck dough into sides of skillet; make sure slits are cut into top of dough.

• Bake at 425 degrees for 15 minutes. Note: If your oven runs hot, reduce heat to 400 degrees. After 15 minutes, reduce heat to 375 degrees and bake another 20 to 25 minutes or until dough is golden brown and cooked all the way through. Remove from oven and let sit 15 minutes; this is an important step to allow liquid to settle down a bit. Set a plate over tart and gently tip any excess liquid out; consider reserving the juices for whipping into cream or for a cocktail. Gently shake skillet to help redistribute peaches. Carefully invert tart onto a plate slightly larger than skillet or onto a cutting board. Gently nudge any wayward peaches back into place with a spatula or spoon. Garnish with fresh thyme flowers or other herbs and serve, if desired, with whipped cream, ice cream, etc.

[Recipe: Elevate creamy, comforting grits with wild Alaska spot prawns]

[Make a pile of smoky salmon cakes to dunk in Alaska chef Beau Schooler’s wondrous ranchovy sauce]

[The perfect dessert for picnics and gatherings, moist carrot cupcakes are sharable and easy to transport]