A risotto to highlight tender spring vegetables

This time of year when the days get longer and brighter, my thoughts turn to the first spring vegetables, like tender peas and carrots, spring onions, radishes and bright green garlic. And for a cool spring night, I love to make risotto — that classic Italian rice dish that lends itself to all types of flavors and ingredients.

I've written before about risotto; this is a basic spring version. Like all risotto, which has a bit of a reputation for being difficult, once you master some of the technique, you'll find it's a basic comfort food classic that you'll make over and over again.

As I often tell my friends, risotto waits for no one, so before you begin, gather everything you need — rice, wine, add-in ingredients, serving bowls, even your guests. Once the risotto is ready, like pasta, it's best enjoyed at once. As for technique, you want risotto that is creamy and not dry, so add the liquid in increments — a ladle or a half cup measure works well. Also, you'll need a high-sided, large and wide pot (at least 10 inches in diameter).

This is a version to highlight tender vegetables, but you can always fold in some smoked salmon or king crab, pesto, a variety of cheeses and herbs. Any leftovers can be reheated over low heat with some added broth or water. Or make arancini, fried rice balls stuffed with melting mozzarella.

Basic creamy spring risotto

Serves 4

4 to 5 cups low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more for finishing

1/4 cup thinly sliced leek or yellow onion

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 cup short grain risotto rice, such as Arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano

About 1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup fresh or frozen snow peas or green peas

1 cup radishes, halved and thinly sliced

1/2 cup fresh asparagus tips

2 garlic cloves, minced

Optional add-ins: smoked salmon, king crab, roasted chicken

1 cup cheese, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or other favorite cheese, for topping

1. Heat broth in a medium pot over medium-low heat and keep it a low simmer. Heat olive oil and butter in a high-sided large pot (see note above) over medium-high heat. Add chopped leek (or onion) and cook, stirring occasionally about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the rice and stir to coat the grains evenly with the oil and leek. Cook until almost every grain is coated with fat (add more oil or a little butter, if needed) and the grains are translucent on the edges but still opaque in the center. Pour in wine and stir, cooking until wine evaporates and the pan is almost dry.

2. Begin adding the warm broth a ladle at a time. Stir until rice soaks up most of the broth; add another ladle of broth and continue cooking and stirring until almost all the liquid has been absorbed. After about 12 minutes, taste the rice and add more salt and pepper, as needed. Keep cooking and stirring until the rice is al dente (still a bit chewy), another 3 to 4 minutes. It should have the consistency of a thick but creamy porridge. Stir in the peas, radishes, asparagus and garlic, and cook another minute or two. If using any additional cooked ingredients, add now and stir. To make the risotto extra creamy, add one more ladle of broth, 1 to 2 tablespoons of butter, and half the cheese, and stir just until blended and creamy. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve in warm bowls with extra cheese at the table.