Little Dipper Diner brings classic breakfast fare to Dimond

Positioned as it is in a cluttered strip mall on Dimond Boulevard, the storefront of the Little Dipper Diner is rather hard to pick out. So much so, in fact, that the sign on its facade features an actual arrow pointing down to its front door. "We're here!" the sign seems to say. "Really!"

Go ahead and follow the arrow. You'll be glad you did.

Inside, the atmosphere is nostalgic Americana. Some details are charmingly authentic, like the stack of vintage '70s Coca-Cola-themed TV trays lined up just inside the door and the old LPs tacked to the wall. And others are … not so much. Like the wall of "classic" cinema signage (circa 2012 is my best guess) that feels like an afterthought. "It seems like they bought a lot of old-timey stuff at the same time," observed my husband, who was joining me for a mid-week lunch. "And didn't buy enough of it." Nailed it. But, that's a minor issue, and one that will take care of itself with a bit of daily wear and tear.

The menu, however, looks very much lived in. Featuring classic diner fare with a bit of country flair, this is a breakfast-centric menu celebrating all things eggy, cheesy, syrupy and bacony. Biscuits, sausage gravy and grits loom large. The lunch menu includes a list of grilled sandwiches, some interesting-sounding burgers and a selection of salads that includes a few throwback offerings like crab Louie.

Service is attentive and warm. As we sipped coffee and studied the menus, we noticed familiar chitchat around the room. People at a nearby table were talking pleasantly with a server about the upcoming wedding of a mutual friend. A man walked in and strode to a table. "Do you need a menu?" the server called after him. "Nope!" "Ready for your cappuccino?" she asked. "Yup!"

"This place has only been open for a few months," I whispered across the table. "How do they already have regulars?"

It was a mystery that grew. The general feeling of old-diner nostalgia became a case of deja vu. The decor was … familiar. The menu was … familiar. Even our server seemed … familiar. And yet, I knew I'd never eaten here before.

A quick Google search shed some light. The Little Dipper Diner is, at least in spirit, a descendant of Cafe AK — a breakfast spot in Spenard that I reviewed and was sorry to see close last year when the owner decided to retire out of state. I was a fan. The team that helped get Cafe AK up and running decided to go out on their own. That explained it. The bric-a-brac at Little Dipper didn't just seem familiar. It was familiar. I'd literally seen it before.

We started with an order of sliders ($11.75). Six — count 'em — six good-sized burgers, joined at the buns, arrive crowded onto a plate. For an ordinary lunchtime appetite, two would be ample. But I ate three, because they're yummy. Light, squishable, slightly-sweet housemade buns encased well-seasoned beef, lots of melted cheese and a generous layer of beautifully caramelized onions. Sweet, soft and buttery, with mellow, earthy flavor, the onions were perfect and made the sliders distinctly craveable.

I opted for the BLTA salad ($11.75) and was thoroughly satisfied. There is nothing innovative here. It's a straightforward plate. But everything on that plate was just right. My husband — not a big salad eater — had to listen to me explain the following: The lettuce and cucumber should be cool and crisp but the tomatoes shouldn't be overly chilled or they'll get mushy. The hard-boiled eggs should be chilled but not old or they become rubbery. The bacon can't be hot but it has to be fresh and melt on your tongue. Refrigerated bacon crumbles are chewy, unpleasantly fatty and can be tooth-achingly gristly. The avocado should be cut to order or it will turn brown. This salad, clearly made to order, adhered to my tiresome Salad Manifesto. Thoughts and prayers to my husband. Imagine having to eat with me on a regular basis.

My husband's Philly cheesesteak omelet ($12.75), which he ordered because it seemed like an "oddity," was a hefty plateful: a plump, fluffy egg wrap stuffed with and topped by sliced roast beef, melted Swiss and grilled onions, peppers and mushrooms. The beef was flavorful, the vegetables were cooked lightly enough that they retained some bite and the Swiss cheese was the perfect choice (though not traditional), giving it a silky texture and with a distinct but not overwhelming flavor. My husband opted for grits on the side, which were … grits. I want to like grits. The very word summons up a rich culinary history. In my mind grits are wonderful. On my plate they're just … grits. But my husband, who has never met a buttery starch he didn't like, was happy.

I returned the following weekend for breakfast with my daughters. Predictably, they both went for pancakes ($5.75 short stack, $6.75 full stack) which were, predictably, demolished. These were golden brown with a pleasantly springy bounce and the nice balance of salt and sweet that makes a good pancake. Sides of sausage ($4.75) and reindeer sausage ($5.75) were generously portioned.

I opted for the Florentine Benedict ($12.25) and it was my favorite dish from either visit. Velvety, perfectly seasoned hollandaise blanketed a beautiful little construction of English muffin, fresh tomato, perfectly poached eggs and spinach. The warmth of the other ingredients lightly cooks the vibrantly green spinach so it's tender but still has its light grassy flavor and texture. It's a decadent dish, but spinach is a super food, right?

The home fries on the side were also winning, and my youngest kept sneaking them off of my plate. These were crispy and well-browned yet tender within and studded liberally with soft-cooked onions and a sprinkling of fresh scallions. Delicious on their own, they were also fun to spruce up — a bit of ketchup, a scoop of egg yolk, a dollop of mustard and then, finally, a liberal dose of hot sauce to keep creeping forks onto their side of the table (hot sauce: condiment and deterrent).

Little Dipper Diner occupies an essential place in a well-balanced restaurant rotation. It's not a greasy spoon with watery coffee and indifferent cuisine, nor is it an upscale bistro with micro-greens, brioche croutons and tofu scrambles. It's somewhere, comfortably, in between. Cozy, clean and friendly, with unpretentious, well-executed food, Little Dipper Diner is a welcome addition to South Anchorage and just a quick drive from Spenard for those who have a breakfast-sized hole in their hearts. I'll be back with my family, but next time my daughter is ordering her own home fries.

Little Dipper Diner

Hours: 6 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday

Location: 1921 W. Dimond Blvd., Suite 106

Contact: 907-770-0991 and littledipperdiner.com

*** 1/2

$$