MACLAREN RIVER — The August caribou season started with a bang, as early-bird hunters had phenomenal success along the Denali Highway. By Aug. 10, there were almost 100 hunting camps between Tangle Lakes and the Maclaren River.
Many caribou were taken near the road, while the ATV hunters had good hunting on trails near Maclaren Summit and west of Tangle Lakes. The hunting crowd was somewhat different than those of the past couple seasons — about half the hunters were using tents and a fair number of packboards were visible too.
Caribou were scattered in singles and pairs over higher terrain. The big herd that had been on the upper Susitna River splintered and dispersed south of the Clearwater Mountains. Most of the take near the Maclaren was small bulls, and by the weekend of Aug. 13-14, far fewer caribou were available near the highway. Hunters willing to walk and pack were still heading home happy, but ATV and road hunters were wishing they'd taken a few days off work instead of waiting for the weekend.
Ptarmigan plentiful too
Fortunately, hunters who had trouble finding a caribou could locate ptarmigan. Early spring's dry weather led to good chick survival and flocks of birds with a half-dozen youngsters are common along the Denali Highway this season.
There's also a bumper crop of berries. Tangle Lakes, the Paxson area, Maclaren and the south side of the Clearwater Mountains are especially good. Pigeon berries and crowberries are ripe. Low bush cranberries are nearly mature and will be ready by first frost.
[Regulate ATVs clogging hunting trails?]
No frost yet, however — at least along the Maclaren. Instead, it is rainy and wet. Rivers and creeks are running into the willows and the water depth in shallow ponds is well above normal. Puddle ducks are having a tough time in their habitual feeding areas. Duck hunters should bring swan decoys. Ducks such as widgeon and teal will be flocking to the bigger birds that can reach and stir up feed on the lake bottoms. Bring good boots; swamps have turned into ponds and the meadows are hip-boot country.
I opted for a walk in knee boots earlier this week and returned soaked. Extra socks and polar fleece are important if you're headed to the Denali to hunt or recreate. Throw in one more change of clothes too. Insulated rubber gloves will be a godsend if all the moisture turns to snow.
Keep your eyes open
Snow might actually help smooth the Denali Highway surface. The gravel is fairly good for the first few miles past Tangle Lakes, but after Mile 27 it quickly turns miserable. The combination of water and minimal grading has created potholes that could swallow a few small Subarus.
Watch the traffic too. Not only are trucks dodging sections of rough road, drivers are trying to spot caribou. Expect oncoming vehicles in your lane as well as the occasional rig stopped in the middle of the road with both doors open. Tour buses will continue running until mid-September. Everyone is looking for game, either to photograph or turn into hamburger. Yield the right of way to the guy who isn't watching where he's going.
The past week has seen a slow down in vehicles and hunters. It's amazing how quickly word gets out concerning the location of caribou. I'm not certain of where all the hunters are now going, but given that more than 14,000 caribou permits have been issued, I doubt the Denali has seen this season's peak.
Hunting or sightseeing, the Denali Highway is a place to enjoy. Show respect — not just to others but to the land and her critters. Take your garbage home, and pick up any trash you might find alongside the road or in the woods. Shoot only when you are positive of your target and not just for the sake of blasting something.
I floated by a camp of hunters today. Two gulls were sitting on the sandbar opposite their tents. On my return trip, the gulls were dead on the sandbar — shot for no reason by boneheads with no concept of nature. Don't be those guys. Be safe, be respectful and enjoy all that is around you.
John Schandelmeier is a lifelong Alaskan who lives with his family near Paxson. He is a Bristol Bay commercial fisherman and two-time winner of the Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race.