Retreating glacier doesn't spoil the allure of Portage Valley

About 50 miles south of Anchorage along the Seward Highway, a left-hand turn swings east through a mountainous glen lush with the green of summer. Free from the frenetic pace accompanying most Kenai Peninsula travel, Portage Valley is a connected system of trails, waterways, wildlife and opportunities for families.

Moose frequent marshy areas near Portage Creek, a crystalline example of glacier-made water. Arctic terns nest along the Alaska Railroad tracks winding through the valley. Bears amble along salmon streams crisscrossing the valley floor, and humans take advantage of myriad trails, campgrounds and visitor activities.

This time of year, Portage Valley rings with the sounds of summer. A favorite day or weekend destination among families looking to escape town without driving far, the valley is marked by a 5-mile stretch of road that gently curves along the river and seems to lead directly into the glaciers near its end.

A 14-mile isthmus linking the Kenai Peninsula to mainland Alaska, Portage Valley is a passageway that has led people back and forth for centuries as a hunting, trade and travel route through Southcentral Alaska. Formerly filled with ice from enormous Portage Glacier, the valley's namesake, the area is now a prime spot to view five glaciers from the roadway: Explorer, Middle, Byron, Burns and Shakespeare. Portage Glacier has retreated behind the rocky mountains of the Chugach range and can only be viewed after a short boat ride — a stark contrast to previous years when visitors could see the glacier's toe stretching nearly to the road.

Navigating a full day or more in the valley encompasses this geological history along with a bit of natural science and plenty of physical activity, a trifecta befitting most of us. To fit it all in, begin at Portage Lake and Begich, Boggs Visitor Center.

Constructed in 1986 on the moraine of Portage Glacier, the visitor center operated by Chugach National Forest is an excellent place to learn more about the valley's scenery, wildlife, and recreation. Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily during the summer, Begich, Boggs is a place to view exhibits, listen to a presentation, or view the film "Retreat and Renewal: Stories from Alaska's Chugach National Forest" in the center's theater. Staffers are on hand to discuss options for hiking, camping and trips to explore Portage Glacier via day-cruise boats.

When the center first opened, visitors could easily view Portage Glacier and icy bits bobbing on the lake through an expanse of windows facing the water. Eagle River resident Jennifer Howell remembers her first trip to Begich, Boggs Visitor Center in 1987 as a junior high student, and the dramatic introduction of the glacier to visitors.

"We had watched a documentary about glaciers and ice in the theater," she said. "But when it was over, the lights didn't go up. Instead the curtains behind the screen opened to reveal Portage Lake just full of icebergs, with the glacier behind that. The floor-to-ceiling windows let us look right out over the ice, and for a kid new to Alaska, it was pretty amazing."

Today, visitors can't see the glacier, but bergy bits do frequently float close to the building, allowing visitors a closer look through those same enormous windows. And they can trace the glacier's retreat of nearly 3 miles over the past few decades.

Hiking

Portage Valley boasts a series of well-maintained trails suitable for most ability levels. Trailheads are easy to reach too, with access from Begich, Boggs Visitor Center and the area's two campgrounds, Williwaw and Black Bear.

• Byron Glacier is a popular hike, offering great views of the valley, glacier, and swift-running creeks. At 0.8 miles one-way, kids can tackle this hike and still have energy left over. The Forest Service asks hikers to stay on the trail at all times, made easier by taking advantage of a guided hike offered Friday-Sunday from 3-5 p.m. Call ahead to reserve your spot with a Chugach National Forest ranger and learn more about the area’s glacially-themed history. (907) 783-2326.
• The Gary Williams Moraine Nature Trail is 0.3 miles, leading from Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, but opportunities to view glaciers, listen for birds, and enjoy the outdoors are excellent for those seeking a quick jaunt. It’s also a nice option for a fast outdoor experience when the weather is bad, common in Portage Valley.
• Williwaw Nature Trail adds an interpretive component to family hikes, especially in July and August when salmon fill Williwaw Creek. Start at the fish-viewing platform along the creek (directional signs provide guidance from Portage Valley Highway) and wind your way along the 1.25-mile trail that travels through the forest, along the creek, and around a few ponds before connecting to the Trail of Blue Ice.
• The Trail of Blue Ice is a crown jewel of Portage Valley, due to its multi-use status as a walking, running, biking, and in winter, skiing trail. At 5 miles one-way, the trail begins at Moose Flats Day Use Area near the Seward Highway and parallels the Portage Highway back to Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Boardwalks, bridges, interpretive signs, and many opportunities to stop and enjoy the view make this the perfect day outing for families whether they’re pedaling or walking, and it’s become a favorite of my crew.

Camping

Two Forest Service Campgrounds are available to overnighters in Portage Valley, and both feature excellent access to the trails mentioned above. The Trail of Blue Ice, especially, is handy for kids since it passes right by both Black Bear and Williwaw campgrounds.

• Williwaw Campground has 60 sites available for tents and RVs, and provides stunning views of valley glaciers. Take advantage of trailside activities like hiking and biking, and weekly ranger-led discussions around the campfire. Each presentation is 7-7:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, and on Sunday mornings at 10:30. Call (907) 783-2774 for a list of topics. About half of Williwaw’s campsites may be reserved through Recreation.gov.
• Black Bear Campground is a 13-site facility recommended for tents, tent trailers, and small RVs. Nestled among the trees of the valley, this campground is a quieter, more rustic alternative to Williwaw’s busyness. Campsites are first-come, first-served and weekends can be crowded.

Other activities

Interested in viewing Portage Glacier and Lake? Portage Glacier Cruises offers hour-long trips to view the glacier's face aboard the Ptarmigan, complete with U.S. Forest Service ranger narration. Trip tickets are $39/adult, $19/kids under 13, but an online coupon is available that knocks off $5 for adults and $2.50 for kids. www.portageglaciercruises.com

Moose Flats Day Use Area is a nice picnic spot to begin your Portage Valley activities, or take a break on your way to or from the Kenai Peninsula. Located close to the Seward Highway, the area offers picnic tables, fire rings, and access to the Wetland Walk, a short trail leading to viewing platforms overlooking marshy areas of the flats and Portage Creek. Fishing is also fun in this location, thanks to wooden platforms that make it easy for young anglers to access the water.

Remember to be extremely bear aware. Brown and black bears frequent the day use areas and campgrounds, so packing away trash or fish waste is imperative. Make sure kids know to make noise, travel in groups, and never run from a bear.

More information about Portage Valley is at the Chugach National Forest website.

Erin Kirkland is author of Alaska On the Go: Exploring the 49th state with children, and publisher of AKontheGO.com, a family travel and recreation resource. She is a frequent visitor to Portage Valley, even on crummy weather days.