I always feel victorious when I discover some new restaurant or activity while traveling. It's an extra bonus when the new venue is close to home.
So I puffed up a little bit after taking my out-of-towners on the Alaska Railroad up to the Spencer Glacier whistle-stop. Most folks who make the trip also sign up either for a raft trip on the Placer River or a canoe trip on Spencer Lake. Both of these trips are offered by Chugach Adventure Guides.
You can get on the train in Anchorage for the 60-mile ride to the trailhead. Or, do what we did: Drive to Portage and hop
on the train for the brief ride up the valley.
In fact, for Anchorage travelers, it's easy to make this rail trip the centerpiece in a full-day Alyeska-Portage adventure. You can combine it with a trip to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, or a dinner date at Chair 5 or the Double Musky Inn in Girdwood. Save some time for unscheduled wildlife viewing along the way, too. We saw a brown bear and some mountain goats from the road this weekend!
If you're driving from Anchorage, you'll see the big signs for the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop train. It's just before the Portage Glacier cutoff if you're headed over to Whittier.
Pick up your travel documents inside the little house next to the railroad tracks. You'll see the rafting guides getting their gear together for the 1:15 p.m. departure.
If you're able to plan ahead, it's a good idea to pack your lunch and some extra water. If you're going on the rafting or canoe trip, Chugach Adventure Guides will provide lunch.
For the rest of us, there are tasty snacks available on board the train.
Just a couple of minutes after you leave the station, you're off the road system. The Alaska Railroad takes a different
route from Portage up to Moose Pass for the run to Seward. After a brief stop along the Placer River to pick up some rafts, you get to ride the rails for a few more minutes before arriving at the Spencer Glacier stop.
This is not a rugged hike. In fact, the entire three-mile trail is well-maintained by the U.S. Forest Service. There's even a guide on the train who will take you on a tour along the river up to the glacier overlook.
Those who are going on the raft/canoe trip are met by a bus to take them a mile up the river for lunch. Both boat trips are scenic -- but easy -- floats. We wanted to get out and explore on our own -- and that's what we did.
The train schedule allows for about two to three hours of exploring until the return train comes along. Of course, you're welcome to camp overnight. But two hours was enough for us.
The trail tracks the Placer River for the first mile or so, until you reach Spencer Lake. The lake is choked with big icebergs from the Spencer Glacier. For out-of-towners, it's a perfect way to get up close and personal with big ice. We elected to keep hiking around the lake for some better glacier views. Along the way, we saw plenty of animal tracks, but we didn't see any moose or bears.
Unlike other popular glacier-viewing venues, there wasn't anyone around. Since the Spencer Glacier is off the road system, there just are not that many folks visiting. And most of those who do take the trip are on one of the boat trips. We watched the rafters push out -- and the Chugach Adventure guides paddled up for a closer look at the big icebergs
-- before drifting down the river.
We lucked out on the weather -- it was very nice, but I was prepared for rain -- this is Alaska in the summertime. The way the trail is laid out makes it a perfect hike in any kind of weather.
After extensive picture-snapping, we hoofed back to the railroad pickup just in time. On the way back, we picked up the rafters -- they were all smiles after enjoying an afternoon on the water.
The Alaska Railroad is offering a special $129 rate for the raft or canoe trip, in conjunction with their Whistle Stop service to Spencer Glacier. That includes lunch and your guided canoe ride or raft trip, plus rail transport from Portage. To travel on the railroad between Portage and Spencer Glacier is just $64. It's best to call for reservations: (800)544-0552 or 265-2494 in Anchorage.
Online resources:
Alaska Railroad It's hard to go wrong when riding the rails in Alaska. Everyone has a good time.
Chugach Adventure Guides These folks offer all kinds of adventures on the water.
Portage Glacier Lodge It's a little bit of a drive up the Portage Valley to this place, but they honest-to-goodness have the best chowder and fudge I've EVER tasted.
Scott McMurren is an Anchorage-based travel marketing consultant who has lived in Alaska for three decades, spending much of that time traveling the far-flung corners of the state. Visit his website at www.alaskatravelgram.com.