Earlier this week I was winging my way from Phoenix to Anchorage on an evening flight when crackling of the cabin intercom woke me from a deep sleep.
"Sorry to disturb you, folks," the captain said. "But outside the aircraft is one of the most spectacular aurora displays I've ever seen."
Indeed it was. Swirling bands of green and purple tinged with red provoked exclamations from the 150 people sharing the plane with me. We sat, reading lights and laptops off, watching one of the planet's most vibrant natural puzzles put on encore after encore until we landed in Alaska three hours later.
The aurora borealis, or northern lights, are a reminder of our Alaskan good fortune, and one reason why so many visitors tend to board their own flights for the far north between September and April. Unique, scientific, but always ethereal, the aurora borealis is a gift provided by the universe, and it has always been my belief that gifts should never be under-appreciated.
Ever watched a kid watch the northern lights? Mouths hang open and eyes widen as a sky-dance of color appears in the northeast and gradually swings across the horizon. Author and famous cartoonist Scott Adams said, "What makes the universe so hard to comprehend is that there's nothing to compare it with," so grabbing an outdoor opportunity to witness the lights, however late at night, in the midst of an Alaska winter, should be an official rite of passage for our youth. It's science, it's mystery, and it's a cool way to spend a few hours with the kids in your life.
Aurora facts
A key element for keeping younger aurora-watchers interested is explaining the "charged" relationship between sun and Earth. Simply put, our home planet has a strong magnetic field that emanates from iron deep within its core, keeping charged particles from the sun from reaching us -- most of the time. At the north and south poles of Earth, however, the magnetic force-field is weaker, allowing some of those busy particles to react with gases in our atmosphere, and boom -- natural phenomena of the most amazing kind. In our case, the farther north one lives, the greater chance for lights, making communities like Fairbanks very popular for self-proclaimed "aurora chasers."
Ancient Vikings used to believe northern lights were the shining weaponry of immortal warriors, and some Alaska Native groups assumed auroral displays were the souls of departed animals. French scientist Pierre Cassendi finally gave them the name we know today, aurora borealis: "Aurora" being the Roman god of dawn, and "Boreas" as the Roman name for northern wind (the South Pole displays are named aurora australis for "southern dawn").
Far northern residents are able to see the northern lights most vividly during the winter months, even though they are often visible between fall and spring, depending upon things like solar flare activity and solar wind. Peak times to head outdoors are usually in the range of 11 p.m.-3 a.m., beyond typical late nights for most kids, but sometimes, nature should trump bedtime.
Where to view the lights
Alaskans are lucky -- heading to a dark place here is easier than say, living in Seattle. A critical element for successful aurora-viewing is a lack of light pollution, and many people swear by their favorite locations around the state.
Anchorage boasts several spots for watching the aurora appear. With kids, it is important to remember that quality is often more memorable than quantity; as in, spending six hours in below-zero temperatures all night may not ultimately result in fond recall, later. Still, urban aurora-watching is highly popular in Anchorage areas like Point Woronzof, Glen Alps trail heads, Abbott Loop Community Park, and Hiland Drive in Eagle River. Sometimes the lights are visible from Alyeska Resort, and Hotel Alyeska night staff are always willing to provide wake-up calls for guests to emerge from bed at the first sign of auroral activity.
Matanuska-Susitna residents may enjoy a nighttime drive to Hatcher Pass, where the twinkling lights from Palmer below mingle with heavenly aurora displays above. Do remember that the road can be slick, and is quite narrow at times during heavy snow years, so keep an eye on driving until you reach the gate at the top. A few hours north lies the village of Talkeetna, where a walk along the Susitna River allows for close-in viewing without venturing too far from the warmth of indoors. Salmon Berry Tours offers northern lights packages to save parents the drive time, and also adds a talk by Talkeetna's Star Lady, who gives some extra attention to the northern lights from a very personal perspective.
Fairbanks, of course, is the grand slam of northern lights viewing for families, and a number of locations in town can ensure your kids see aurora without freezing too many fingers or toes. Try Creamer's Field, Chena Hot Springs Road or the Chena Hot Springs Resort, where kids can indulge in swimming, skiing and dog sledding in between aurora nights.
Cold? Sure it's cold, but kids, if dressed appropriately, are tougher than the temperatures, and if kept moving, fed and engaged, will last a lot longer than we think. Wondrous nights of lights await us this holiday season, no batteries required.
Erin Kirkland is author of Alaska on the Go: Exploring the 49th state with children, and publisher of AKontheGO.com, Alaska's only family travel resource. Connect with her at e.kirkland0@gmail.com.
Supply list for aurora-viewing Alaska with kids
• Layers of quality clothing: Wool or synthetic long underwear, fleece, down jacket, weatherproof outer layer to protect against wind. Add a hat with ear flaps and mittens as opposed to gloves for maximum warmth. Make sure socks are non-cotton and boots have enough wiggle room for toes.
• Face protection: Many seasoned aurora watchers use full-face masks and wear goggles to keep every inch of the face covered. Watch noses, lips and cheeks for frost-nip or frostbite, especially on younger children.
• Warm drinks and food: Bring a thermos of hot drinks and insulated mugs to allow for warm-ups from the inside out. Offer healthy snacks like cheese sticks and crackers with dried fruit, or pack the thermos with hot soup and bring mugs for everyone.
• Blankets or sleeping bags: There's nothing like cozying up to the northern lights all wrapped in fleece or down, and extra insulation for kids who decide to lie down to view the aurora is always appreciated. Use a tarp under the blanket or sleeping bag to prevent wetness, however.
• Skis, snowshoes, sleds, and headlamps: Kids need to move, and the opportunity for a late-night ski under the swirling aurora is a special one, for sure. Moving also keeps bodies warm and minds less likely to focus on tiredness.
Businesses that cater to aurora watchers
alyeskaresort.com
salmonberry.com/tours/northern-lights-overnight
chenahotsprings.com