Food & Drink

Shannon Kuhn: Celebrating life with special foods on Dia de los Muertos

On Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), sugar skulls, tamales and sweet bread take center stage. Throughout Latin America and especially Mexico, Nov. 1 is a celebration of life and death, past and present, place and home.

This special holiday is a time of remembrance and honoring the deceased with all the things they enjoyed in life. Marigolds light up rooms and the smell of anise sweetens it. Spicy hot cocoa is brewed by the gallon on the stovetop. Death becomes whimsical and playful. Food is an important element of this day, both for altar offerings and to eat with friends and family.

Here are four treats to eat this Dia de los Muertos in Anchorage. Learn more about Dia de los Muertos by attending the 11th annual Celebration and Altar Exhibit at Out North Contemporary Art House at 5 p.m. Nov. 1.

Pan de muertos at French Oven Bakery

An indispensable item of Dia de los Muertos is pan de muertos (skull bread), a traditional egg bread decorated with "bones" made of dough and sprinkled with sugar. Of Mexican heritage but Kenai-grown, Lina Mariscal is the owner of Spenard's French Oven Bakery, which opened in 1999. Few people know they are the only bakery in town that makes Mexican sweet breads, or pan dulce. Each day, 13 dozen are made and delivered fresh to Mexico Lindo, a small Mexican grocery on Tudor and Minnesota. Making pan dulce keeps Mariscal connected to her roots, although she jokes that they're not good for her figure. On Dia de los Muertos she will be baking a special batch of pan de muertos that will be sold only at Mexico Lindo.

1406 W. 31st Ave., 563-8989

Guava paste, queso Oaxaqueno and cajeta at Mexico Lindo

Have you had guava empanadas? Oaxacan cheese dip? Cajeta filled cupcakes? Well, no doubt you will be researching recipes now and need some key ingredients. In which case, head to Mexico Lindo. A small convenience store, its shelves are filled with Mexican cooking essentials, like corn husks to make tamales, masa flour for tortillas, gallon-sized Ziploc bags full of dried guajillo and ancho chili peppers, brown sugar cane blocks and more. The fridge section is stocked with fresh cheeses like cotija and queso fresco, and it's the only place that I have found stocking an 8-pound bucket of lard. Perusing the aisles I also discovered dried tamarind pods, mango paste, bags of frozen plantains and an impressive array of Mexican candy.

1201 W. Tudor Road; 563-4155

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Spicy Mayan hot chocolate at Modern Dwellers

Chocolate has been consumed for centuries in a rich, thick, liquid form. Located in Midtown at the Metro Mall, Modern Dwellers is a magical place where vats of chocolate melt and swirl, truffles are rolled and edible fairy dust is sprinkled. In this self-proclaimed "chocolate lounge," art and chocolate are woven together to make beautiful and delicious creations. On any given day, you might find owner Zoe Oakley deep in discussion with her staff about the ethics of the chocolate industry or brainstorming off-the-wall truffle combinations. Order their new spicy Mayan drinking chocolate with coconut milk and a dollop of whipped cream. (You can also get it as hot cocoa, in which case I recommend adding almond milk.)

530 E. Benson Blvd., 677-9985 and moderndwellers.com

Mole enchiladas at Mexico in Alaska

I grew up on the mole enchiladas, beans and rice at Mexico in Alaska and always have fond memories when I eat there. Pronounced mole-eh, it's sort of like the curry of Mexico -- an earthy and complex sauce that is spooned over enchiladas, tamales, chilaquiles and more. Every home cook and restaurant chef makes his or her mole sauce differently. At Mexico in Alaska, it's a little sweet with a kick of spiciness, made with chocolate (yes, more chocolate!) and cinnamon. The tortillas are homemade from a recipe given to restaurant founder Maria-Elena by her grandmother (Mama Maria). Be forewarned that you may want to lick your plate when you are done.

7305 Old Seward Highway, 349-1528 and mexicoinalaska.com

Shannon Kuhn lives in Anchorage, where she writes about food and culture. Reach her at play@alaskadispatch.com.

Shannon Kuhn

Shannon Kuhn lives in Anchorage and is co-founder of the Anchorage Food Mosaic. She writes about food and culture and can be reached at play@alaskadispatch.com (subject line: Shannon Kuhn).

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